Baby wrap sweater

I finished the little sweater I've been knitting for Justin and Suzanne's baby. Fortunately I picked green because the baby girl turned into baby boy Owen Zander Smith. This is a wrap around style that can be worn either way overlapping in the front or back. It involved several new techniques to me and took longer than I thought such a little sweater would take. I'm very pleased with it.

June 26 I added these two photos of Oz wearing the sweater. It is way too big for him now but you get the idea.

McCall 4716 with twist drape

4/30/07 8:08 PM
Last Updated:	4/30/07 8:10 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
On a trip recently I saw a top in a shop window that was different from any I had seen. It looked super easy to recreate so here it is. The top was a simple tank with an added collar that draped from one shoulder, around the front neck twisting and continuing around the back neck. It was gathered into the shoulder seam and not attached anywhere across the front. It was stitched to part of the back neckline and then draped under the front shoulder where it started. I neglected to make note as to how wide the collar/drape piece was so I draped some of my fabric to experiment. My fabric is a rayon/cotton jersey that is pretty beefy. This was a remnant so I was limited to a sleeveless garment. I cut a piece 16 inches wide and as long as my remnant allowed. I finished the long edges and gathered one end. I stitched the gathered end into the left shoulder. Immediately I could tell that this would be quite different from the garment I had seen in the store window primarily because of the thickness of my fabric. My drape piece may have been wider but it definitely is thicker. It was almost too much to gather into the shoulder. I liked the look of the drape though so I kept the width. But when I brought the drape around to tuck into the neckline it was very cumbersome. Also, I needed to attach the drape in a few more places than on the original to keep the drape reasonably in place. As you can see I decided to leave the extra length on the end of the drape. I tucked it under the neckline and stitched but let the end drape out of the arm opening. The back collar twists and drapes also. I used McCall's 4716 only for the basic tank and neckline shape. I did not use the collar/drape included with the pattern. If I were to try this again I would use a thinner jersey and a slightly narrower drape piece.

McCall 4261 Mat Bag

Posted on:	4/30/07 8:36 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
Pattern Description: This pattern includes a lot of separate pieces for your exercise classes. Pants, skirt, tee top, bra top, zip hoodie, and a bag for your mat. That is the piece I made. I lost the strap to my mat about 3 years ago and have intended to make a bag ever since. Once I finally got to it it only took about an hour to create. Fabric is a nice quality Asian theme cotton. The strap is webbing from JoAnn's. Pattern Sizing: I measured my mat to be sure the bag was long enough and it was exactly right. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except I added a pocket. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy to follow and easy to sew. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really liked that it was just the right size for my mat. I am puzzled about the pocket they have included. I cut it out without much thought but fortunately before I sewed it on I reflected a bit on what I needed a pocket for. They show the pocket with a magazine in it. Why do you need to carry a magazine to your yoga/pilates class? A towel maybe but the pocket isn't big enough for a towel. It is too deep for the things I need a pocket for: keys, membership card, sunglasses. So I added a little pocket on top of the big pocket just the right size for my membership card. Now I'm happy. No more mat unrolling in the car all the time. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This took about an hour so I would be happy to make one for a friend who needed one. Conclusion This is the kind of thing that gets admiration from people when you carry it. They think it is so cool and are amazed that you made it. Most have no clue as to how quick and easy it is to create.

Simplicity 4074 mock wrap dress, rayon jersey print

	4/14/07 8:38 PM
Last Updated:	4/14/07 8:41 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I Highly recommend this pattern
Pattern Description: I used the popular Simplicity separates pattern for my summery dress. The pattern includes 2 tops, 2 dresses and a skirt. At a glance the dress looks like a wrap dress but it is not. Pattern Sizing: Sixe 6 through 22 available. My envelope included 6 - 14. I cut the 10 at the top and 14 at the sides. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think so. Here is the back. It does fall straight. I think the way I'm standing makes the back seam askew. Were the instructions easy to follow? Quite easy and complete. The only tricky part for a beginner is the collar/back neck in one with the front. This requires stitching, slashing and pivoting. Not hard but perhaps confusing to a novice. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the softness from the tucks at the shoulder. I like the mock wrap. Wrap dresses tend to cause me some trouble coming unwrapped. Fabric Used: Rayon jersey from Lucy's Fabrics. Super comfortable to wear. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I lowered the bust and did a FBA as usual. I had planned to make the sleeves but decided as I progressed that it would be nice for summer as a sleeveless dress. I needed to take up the shoulders an inch, take in the under arm and the top part of the princess seam. All of this might not have been necessary if I had set the sleeve in but the rayon jersey has a tendency to stretch lengthwise. I found the weight of the fabric pulled the bodice down so that the underarms were too low, thus the alterations. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is a very nice pattern. I hope to make it again, perhaps a top next time. Conclusion Watch out with jersey with 4 way stretch. Not so much a problem with tops but with a full length dress the fabric relaxes downward. The hem line was several inches longer when done than it was when I cut it out. Here's another view.

Loes Hinse 5303 New York Dress, Cavalli cotton/lycra knit panel

4/11/07 2:49 PM
Last Updated:	4/11/07 2:54 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Loes Hinse Designs Pattern Information
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
See other patterns in this category:	Dress
Available for sale on PR:	Yes
Current Tags :
Pattern Description: The New York Dress is an easy fit simple dress that skims the body. It is designed for knits. I made this once before from a black ottoman rib knit and loved the ease and comfort. When I acquired this fabulous fabric I wanted to make a simple garment that would show off the fabric and not waste much of the wonderful design on the panel. Pattern Sizing: Sizes XXS through XXL in one envelope. I made size Small with no alterations! Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes another view Were the instructions easy to follow? This is a very simple garment and although Loes Hinse's directions are minimal they are enough in this case. Front, back and sleeves. The sleeves are put in in the flat so even that is easy. I spent more time fiddling with the serger to get a good 5 thread seam than I did sewing. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This is one of my favorite looks for me....v neck with skim the body fit. Also it uses very little yardage. As my fabric was a panel of only 1.6 yards I was limited to what would work and I really wanted something more than just a top. Fabric Used: Cotton/lycra knit panel designed by Roberto Cavalli from EmmaOneSock. I took some time figuring out the best layout for showing off the fabric designs but the fabric was very easy to sew. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: none Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I highly recommend this pattern. I haven't sewn the other view and I'm a bit skeptical of it but I love this one. Conclusion Great to show off a special fabric. Here's a close up.

Simplicity 3954 Nursery Accessories

4/11/07 2:30 PM
Last Updated:	4/11/07 3:42 PM
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
Pattern Description: This pattern is a collection of items for the baby's nursery by designer Patty Reed. It includes a crib dust ruffle, wall hanging, bumper pad, sheet, quilt, crib caddy, glider and ottoman cushions and window shade. I made the dust ruffle and crib caddy. I also improvised stars based on the fabric design. These are to be put on the wall behind the crib. I made valances for 4 windows without a pattern and a changing table cover (using McCall's 4897). I made these for my new grandbaby's nursery. She will be arriving soon. The fabrics were chosen by my DIL to go in a room they painted apple green. It was hard for me to try to decorate a room I haven't been in. I hope this all works out. My DIL just sent me some photos of the room. Here you can see the valances and crib caddy tied to the changing table. Pattern Sizing: It is useful to use these patterns for sizing for the crib and changing table cover when you don't have these items in front of you to measure. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except I pieced with several fabrics. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes very easy. The pocket hanger or crib caddy was particularly fun to make. The dust ruffle was a pain because of the length of the pieces that I decided to make with 3 fabrics. Lots of stitching and gathering, but easy. I zigzagged over string to pull up the gathering instead of the suggested machine stitched 2 rows. That always breaks when you have a long stretch of gathering. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Here's the major thing that I want to mention for anyone thinking of using this pattern. I think this is a big error. If you follow the cutting layout with a similar one way design fabric, the design will be sideways. Even with my stripes I couldn't cut it the way they have it laid out or the stripes would run around instead of up and down. I think they did this because if you cut the usual way you will have to piece the dust ruffle. 45 inch fabric is not wide enough to cut each section of the ruffle. This true of the bumper pad also. So be wary. You will need to reevaluate the amount of yardage you need. Fabric Used: Quilting cottons. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The crib caddy has velcro used to hold the straps. I changed this to ties. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Just be careful with the cutting layouts. Conclusion I was going to make the bumper pad but stumbled on a ready made one that matched the ensemble perfectly at a great sale price. Thank heavens, that would have been the most work.

Simplcity 4095 graffiti knit top

	2/4/07 3:45 PM
Last Updated:	2/4/07 4:45 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Great wardrobe builder pattern
Pattern Description: A great collection of basics for your wardrobe. 2 top styles, pull-on pants and 6 panel skirt all for stretch knits. This review is for the wrap front top. Previously I reviewed the skirt. Pattern Sizing: Size AA includes 10 - 18. It is also available in sizes 20W - 28W. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, exactly. Here's another view. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very simple. If you haven't done a set in sleeve or dealt with knits before you may want to refer to an additional reference. I used fusible bias at the hemline and still got a bit of stretching with this fabric. Next time I'll use a cover stitch. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the gathers at the shoulders, the fit, and the ease of construction. It is hard to see because of the print but the shoulder seam is forward about 1 1/2 inch. I like this detail to highlight the gathers. Fabric Used: Subway Graffiti print triple mesh from EmmaOneSock. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: No alterations. I decided to go with a straight size 14 without doing my usual FBA using a smaller size. This worked out fine. The neckline may be a little bit loose caused either by using the larger size or stretching of the knit. I did not stabilize the knit at the neck. Next time I will use the same size but shorten the length of the neck band by about an inch. That should take care of the slight excess. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Definitely. I plan to sew it again several times. This was a test for sizing. I have made many similar tops but this is among my favorites. I like the neckline treatment and plan to try using something wispy or raw edged for a deconstructed look.

Burda WOF 1/2006 127 Jacket embroidered satin

	1/29/07 6:20 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Difficult, but ended up with good results
This project began with the arrival of the fabric, an embroidered, quilted polyester satin which was an impulse purchase from FabricMartFabrics. They have such good deals! I thought I would make a Chinese style jacket from it. But then I remembered I had a black/white Riri zipper that wanted to be used. So I set about looking through my vast pattern stash to find an appropriate zip front jacket. All of them required a longer zipper than mine. I decided I could use the shorter zipper if I didn't have the zip go out along the collar edge. That led me to this pattern. Pattern Description: A sporty, fitted jacket with zip front, set in sleeves and kangaroo pouch pocket. Pattern Sizing: This is in the Burda size range 34 - 40. I did size 40 with a FBA adding about 3 inches. I also added some extra to the all the vertical seams because the tissue fitting seemed to show the design ran snug and the photo in the magazine seems to indicate a close fit. In the end I took out all the extra. It now fits with plenty of ease for a garment underneath. Here's the back. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does except for all the changes (see below) and the looser fit. Were the instructions easy to follow? This design had lengthier instructions than usual for Burda. However, although they are accurate, the description of how to do the patch pockets, cuffs, facing and lining, are hard to follow without any pictures. If you are not familiar with how to do these things use a book to help you. The Burda instructions are confusing. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked that it is nicely shaped, not boxy. I love the collar. I didn't need all the extras....zip pockets, tabs, zip sleeve closures, etc. although they are fun. Fabric Used: Embroidered and quilted polyester. It is quilted to some kind of interfacing that dissolves if you touch it with an iron. After melting a few places I started being very careful with the iron. A press cloth helped but it would still melt with that, just not as badly. Red satin lining for fun. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As you can see I eliminated all the extra elements (zips, pockets, tabs) because of the surface interest of my fabric. I also used the selvege of my fabric (which was the black satin base fabric without the embroidery) to trim the edge of the kangaroo pocket, the sleeve cuffs, and the collar. I didn't have the zipper go out to the end of the collar. And here's the silly part. After picking this pattern so I could use the black and white Riri zipper, I didn't like how it looked when I got to that part of the construction. I changed to a solid black zipper that I had on hand. I liked its look a lot better I guess because it echoes the black trim. So I still need to use that expensive zipper... Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would make this again if I need another sporty jacket. It took a while to construct what with the trim and the lining but it went together easily. It always slows me way down when I make design changes because I have to ponder quite a while. Just putting the trim on the patch pocket puzzled me for a while. It is actually a pretty easy garment if you can decipher the instructions. Conclusion I'm pleased with my new jacket.

Sewing Workshop Mission Jacket

1/29/07 3:15 PM
Last Updated:	1/29/07 3:40 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Recommended, but with modifications
Pattern Description: This is an early Sewing Workshop pattern. They describe it as loose-fitting, unlined, below hip jacket with back, front and upper sleeve cut as one. Single layer folded collar extends to bottom hem. Straight sleeve has double-rolled cuff. Stitched hems and side vents. There is also a loose-fitting, pullover tank with bias-bound neck and armholes. Pattern Sizing: All sizes included, Small through XXL. I used Small. Although it is loose fitting through the upper body it does narrow closer to the body at the hips. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Partly, see below. Were the instructions easy to follow? yes. Sewing Workshop instructions are quite good. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I tried on a version of this at a class with Linda Lee where she was featuring some of her earlier patterns. This was made up in a soft, textured woven. I thought it looked great and, since I have owned the pattern for years, I was eager to go home and try it. The unusual thing about this design is that there is no shoulder seam. The front, back and upper sleeve are cut as one. Although this makes it very quick to sew it also created large folds at the back and front shoulders. I hadn't noticed this in the softer fabric in the sample garment but in my crisper fabric the folds were quite pronounced. I didn't like this look. First I pinned out the folds thinking I would sew them from underneath. I realized that the folds fell exactly where raglan seams would occur. That seemed boring. Then, going with the unusual look of my fabric, I changed the plan to external tucks, doubling them on both front and back. Now I like the look. Fabric Used: double sided polyester or blend. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: See above. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would not make this again nor recommend it unless you want to fiddle around as I did. Conclusion Perhaps if you are using a soft and drapey fabric this would work out for you. It is a quick sew and good for showing off a double sided fabric.

Butterick 4745 twist top/dress

	1/29/07 3:07 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: This pattern includes a jacket, pants, skirt, top and dress. I made the top which is a twist front design similar to the popular Burda WOF twist top. The dress is exactly the same as the top only longer of course. The top has cap sleeves that are slit at the shoulders. Pattern Sizing: I used size combination AA (6-8-10-12). It also comes in size EE (14-16-18-20). I made size 12 adding a little at the bust side seams and I cut size 10 at the shoulders. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the addition of cap sleeves to the twist style. Also it is a more relaxed fit than the Burda top which I found to be quite snug. The main difference is that the Burda top has the V back whereas this has a high back. Fabric Used: Rayon jersey, super comfortable. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: none. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I like the idea of making this up as a dress. Yes, I recommend this pattern.

Vogue 8088 Marcy Tilton silk velvet jacket

	1/29/07 2:08 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
Pattern Description: This is a loose fitting vest or jacket with a shaped hem and no closures. Marcy Tilton includes embellishment techniques with metallic foil patches or contrast patches and ribbon. I didn't use any of the embellishments. Previously I made this in silk organza which creates a very different look. Pattern Sizing: XY (S-M-L) or XZ (XL-XXL). I used size Small Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The shape is the same. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very good instructions that are easy to follow. This pattern is designed with mitered corners and inch wide hems of doubled fabric. French seams are used through out. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the unusual shaping created by the triangular side piece. Fabric Used: For this version I used a lovely silk velvet in a paisley pattern. Though this fabric is beautiful it was tough to deal with. It wants to drape and ripple (check out how the back of the sleeves drape) and it is hard to top-stitch accurately. However it is incredibly comfortable. Because of the difficulties inherent in this fabric I wanted to keep it simple which is why I picked this pattern. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I left off the cuff from the sleeve. I felt my fabric would not hold the fold of the cuff well. Also I didn't do my usual FBA because of the relaxed fit of this design. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? If I were to make this pattern again in such a drapey fabric I would switch out the sleeve to a standard 2 piece sleeve. This one is a 2 piece sleeve with the seam moved to the back which creates bias on the lower back sleeve piece. I may not make it again as more than 2 times is unusual for me on any pattern but I do recommend this to you. You can see how different this pattern looks in a crisp fabric at my previous review which is sewn from silk organza. I like the pattern either way.

Folkwear Paris Promenade Dress 261

1/5/07 7:48 PM
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Description: In a discussion about this dress on the message board, I mentioned that I made the dress long ago, maybe 20 years. I loved it at the time and because of that I thought I might still have it in the back recesses of a closet. I was asked to post photos if I found it. Miraculously I found it. The good news is that although I made it 20 pounds ago it fits, because as you can see in the photos, it is huge and the fitting is from the sash. The bad news is that, although I can get it on, I don't think it is flattering with the extra 20 pounds, especially from the back. And, maybe it isn't quite my style anymore. Here is the description from Folkwear: This easy-to-sew, easy-to-wear afternoon dress from about 1920 flatters any figure. Pullover dress is attached to bib-shaped overdress, then shaped to the body at the waist by a self-fabric sash or purchased decorative cord. Vintage-style drawstring handbag completes the look. Pattern includes instructions for making decorative tassels to attach at ends of dress sleeves and bottom of handbag. Suggested fabrics: Light to medium-weight fabrics with drape, such as silk, silk velvet, rayon, featherweight cotton, or jersey. For a more defined look, choose fabrics with more body, such as crisp cotton, lightweight linen, and silk taffeta. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except I brought the tie around to the front. Also I see that they have modified the design to have a pointed bib in the front and back. Mine is straight across. That seems an improvement. I would have worn this with a necklace though which might work better with the straight across bib. Were the instructions easy to follow? I think so but I really don't remember. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? At the time big, loose, long dresses were popular and I liked them. This one had a vintage charm without being too odd. Fabric Used: Drapey rayon border print and crinkly solid black. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: none Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Not for me today but if the style suits you, it is easy to sew and fit. Be sure to use a drapey fabric. Conclusion As you can see this is quite wide.

Simplicity 3937 Simply Baby, sock monkey tote, blanket, book

12/12/06 8:34 PM
Last Updated:	12/12/06 9:08 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: This pattern includes babies' buntings, hats, blanket, knit romper, and diaper bag. I made the bag. It has 2 outside pockets, 2 inside pockets and a flap with velcro for closing. Pattern Sizing: The garments come in sizes XS (1-3 months), S (6 months) and M (12 months). There is no indication as to the size of the diaper bag. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Way not! They did some kind of trick photography to make the diaper bag look about the width of the bunting. If that were a true representation that bunting would be too big for me. There were no dimensions given on the pattern envelope for the bag. I was concentrating on matching the fabric when I was cutting out and didn't pay attention to how big the pattern pieces were. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very simple. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I have not made a bag before so I was pleased with the ease of construction. Obviously I was surprised by the size of the bag but not terribly unhappy. It makes a very nice large tote bag. Fabric Used: A sock monkey design with a coordinating peeled banana print inside. They are both quilting cottons. I quilted the cotton onto batting and muslin to make it more bulky for the bag. I just stitched along the squares of the design. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Not really any except I used a variety of interfacing weights as it seemed necessary instead of just light weight as called for in the pattern. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This makes a nice shaped tote with outside and inside pockets and no hard to find hardware. I might make one for myself out of a tapestry fabric. Conclusion I'm finally going to be a grandma so I'm starting a whole new world of sewing. I'm snapping up baby patterns when they are on sale and searching all different fabric sources for ideas. How fun. I've waited a while for this as my son will be 39 when the new baby arrives. When I spotted this sock monkey fabric I knew I had to use it somehow. My son takes a sock monkey I gave him years ago to every gig he performs and puts it out with the tip jar. So I'm going to make this a sock monkey baby. Maybe I could make an entire nursery ensemble out of related fabrics. Oh, wait. I guess that would be awful. I'll just make a few things. In the photo is a blanket I made with sock monkeys on red flannel backed with a luxurious micro-fiber. I also made a cloth book out of a related panel.

Vogue 2555 Donna Karan top, Missoni stripe knit

11/27/06 8:42 PM
Last Updated:	11/27/06 9:47 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Vogue Pattern Information Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: I've had this pattern for 5 years or so. It continued to be in the Vogue catalog until recently so some of you may have it in your pattern stash. The top looks similar to some current looks with the band at the bottom and blousing above it. Vogue describes it as a mock wrap, blouson, pullover top with bias front, neckline binding and peplum. View B that I made has semi-fitted, long sleeves. View A is sleeveless with bound armholes. There is a fitted, straight skirt in the pattern also. Pattern Sizing: Standard sizing with 6-8-10 or 12-14-16 or 18-20-22 together in the envelope. I made size 10 with FBA. Since I usually wear a 14 in a skirt I just added to the side seams to make it work. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except for the skirt that I changed to have no slits. Were the instructions easy to follow? Instructions were very good. No problems. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted a pattern that I could play with the stripes of my fabric. This has a bias front so you see the diagonal stripes. The front is bound so I used the fabric going a different direction for that. The peplum/band has the stripes vertical and the skirt and back of the top have horizontal stripes. So I liked this pattern for those options. I also like the blouson effect that has come back into style (helps hide that excess around the waist). Fabric Used: A Missoni look knit from EmmaOneSock. I love the fabric but it was problematic to work with. Matching the stripes wasn't too hard but the cut edges all curled a lot. I needed to press these flat to stitch seams. The problem was that I didn't want to press much because it flattened the bubbly effect of the knit. So I was careful to just press in the seam allowance. Also the fabric relaxed a lot as I worked with it which required quite a bit of taking in on the side seams of both the top and the skirt. I loved the scalloped edge on the selvage of the fabric so I used it for the hemline of the skirt and sleeves. That too had to be carefully pressed flat. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: My normal alterations for size plus I eliminated the slit in the skirt. And changed the direction of the fabric as described above. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes I would sew it again. I like the variation on the wrap top. The front crossover is quite low and gaps open. I like it open with camisole underneath to break up all that pattern. If one didn't like it gaping open it would be easy to tack it closed at center front. Conclusion Fun top that seems current. Why do they take these out of the catalog when their time has finally arrived?

Simplicity 4047 1950's Wardrobe, rayon blouse

	11/20/06 7:03 PM
Last Updated:	11/20/06 7:41 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Simplicity Pattern Information Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I Highly recommend this pattern
Pattern Description: This review is for the blouse from the 1950's Retro wardrobe from Simplicity. The pattern also includes a swing jacket (reviewed earlier), capris and a straight skirt in two lengths. The blouse has a side zipper, peplum, tucks at the neckline and cut on sleeves. A sash is included as an option to be worn with the blouse. Pattern Sizing: Large range of sizes in one pattern. Mine included size 6 through size 14, nice since I combine sizes. It is available up to size 22. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except my sleeves curve outward at the edge. Don't know why. I tried it with the edge folded in a little cuff (in the main photo) which would be nice if it would stay put. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very good instructions. The blouse is not as easy as the jacket with the invisible side zipper and fitting issues but the instructions are complete with good sketches. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the different, slightly retro look, the fitted shaping and peplum. The sash is fun for a change. I don't like whatever happened to make the sleeves curl. Fabric Used: I used a multi-design rayon from Citron. The garment is not pieced. The different design areas are part of the fabric. This fabric caused me much trouble. First in cutting out, getting the design layout to make sense was time consuming. Then the pieces didn't line up quite the way I planned and I had to fiddle with the fabric a lot to get it to work, particularly at center front. You can see that the black at the neckline is not symmetric. It was way worse than that before I started fiddling. I basically made one side slightly smaller than the other to get the two sides to work together at all. To disguise that slight problem I can wear a pin. Then, because it was a wobbly rayon, kinda crinkled, it was a bear to get a straight hem. After finishing I realized I should have used fusible tape in the hem as I do often on knits. That would have helped immensely. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: No design changes except for the effect caused by the fabric design itself. I made a 10 at the shoulders and 14 at the sides. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would make it again, in a easier fabric. The white with black pin stripe capris on the pattern envelope looks like a good idea. Conclusion Fun, relatively easy to sew, pattern with lots included in one envelope.

Simplicity 4047 1950's Wardrobe, swing jacket

11/20/06 5:00 PM
Last Updated:	11/20/06 7:40 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Simplicity Pattern Information Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I Highly recommend this pattern
Pattern Description: This is a delightful collection of garments representing the style of the 1950's. Included are a swing jacket, blouse, sash, capri pants, and straight skirt. This review is for the jacket. I also made the blouse which I will review separately. Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes with a large range of sizes in one envelope. I used the size H5 which includes sizes 6,8,10,12, and 14. It is available up to size 22. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes indeed. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very good instructions. The only part that might confuse an inexperienced seamstress is the right angle pivot at the collar which is cut in one with the front. Take care with the bias bottom pieces. It is very easy to stretch the bottom hem. This happened to me as I recklessly pressed without thinking about it. I was able to steam the shape back in but it would have been better to take care. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern includes so much I almost feel guilty that I paid only $1.00 for it. There are even separate pattern pieces for the lining of the jacket. Only dislike, I guess I prefer a jacket with pockets, especially if there is no closure on the front. But that is typical of a swing jacket. Fabric Used: Silk tussah in gold and black with black silk lining. I chose this because I wanted to use a fabric with direction to play up the bias peplum. Here is the back. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual combining of sizes with 10 at the top, 14 at the sides and 6 for the sleeve length. I did not do my usual FBA because of the loose fit of the jacket. I added a button because I had this great one in my stash. I made a slot buttonhole in the seam between the jacket top and peplum. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would definitely sew this again, maybe adding pockets in the side seam. Conclusion Easy to sew, fun to wear, good for playing with stripes.

Vogue 2920 Donna Karan draped top red silk brocade

10/23/06 3:40 AM
Last Updated:	10/23/06 3:49 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Recommended, but with modifications
I fell in love with this Donna Karan design when I saw Meryl Streep wearing it in "The Devil Wears Prada". Vogue came out with the pattern right away and I snapped it up. I didn't think I would really make it but that it would join my vast pattern collection. One evening I happened to take the instructions with me for some bed time reading and was amazed at the structure of this garment. The photo on the pattern envelope is so dark that the details can't be seen very well. The line drawing is better of course but who knew that there is self-fringe used. Also the big floppy flower is part of the collar that wraps around and not just added on. The collar is not attached to the top of the sleeves. The sleeves and upper back have elastic inserted at the top. Anyway, I became intrigued and decided to plunge into this project, as I sometimes do, out of curiosity and pure love of sewing. I did not really think this would be a real garment I could wear. Pattern Description: Vogue's description: Close-fitting jacket has pleated front with front band, princess seams, fronts are draped around shoulders and back forming a flower at right shoulder, two-piece sleeves, self-fabric fringe and topstitching trim. There are also pants included with flared leg, side front slanted pockets, button tab, yoke with front welt pocket, invisible zipper and back tabs with button trim. Pattern Sizing: The sizing is AX (4-6-8), C (10-12-14) or F (16-19-20). I chose size C so that I could combine size 10 at the shoulders and 14 at the sides. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? More or less. Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are amazing. This is a very complex garment which must have been designed by draping. I can't imagine any other way it could have been conceived. Somehow Vogue managed to translate the construction into a 11 piece pattern with 73 steps to construct! Yes, 73 steps (and that's with no lining). All accurate with good drawings to illustrate. The only error I found was not in the instructions but on the envelope back where it describes the fabrics to use. It says Moderate Stretch Knits only: Stretch wool crepe, stretch wool flannel and stretch men's suiting. Obviously those fabrics are not knits so that is misprint. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the design and the uniqueness of it plus the challenge/puzzle of working on it. I disliked the amount of time it took considering I may never wear it. I disliked that it was not possible to tell how well it would fit until about step 60. It was very confusing at times to tell what was what since the huge amount of fabric draping around the shoulders and extending out about 3 feet for the flower is not attached to the back until almost the end. Very hard to try on in any meaningful way. It is a bit uncomfortable to wear as the sleeves fall down the arm (they are not attached to anything) making it hard to lift your arm. I found that if I pin the top of the sleeve front to my bra that it stays up better. I see in the photo that it is falling down causing bunching at the front of the arm and a too-low underarm. Also the draping is rather unstable and needs a lot of fussing to have it be just right. I see a place on the front that isn't quite right. So if I wear it it will be to some occasion that I just need to stand around and not do anything. Hmmm, I think I may have an event near Christmas that is like that. Fabric Used: Red/black stretch brocade from my stash. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: The main change I did was at the end when it was almost done and I could finally try it on. I didn't like how it looked on me across the front. The right draped across almost horizontally and was widening. I changed the placement of the hooks and eyes so that the right side lapped much lower with a stronger diagonal line. This made the right bottom edge drop much lower so I took 2 inches off the corner to bring it back closer to the original look. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Of course I won't sew it again but I would recommend it to those of you who like the style and want a challenge. Making the fringe was time consuming and could be eliminated if desired. The most challenging part was at step 72 and 73 just when I thought I was almost done. Step 72 states "roll flower, adjusting gathers as desired. Using a heavy duty thread, sew gathered edges together as you roll." That sounds so innocent. This took hours to achieve. I think this is the only time I've had to put a project on my dressform to figure out what to do. Even then I almost decided to whack that flower off because it looked so ridiculous. Then step 73 says "tack folds of drape in place at intervals." This means all those drapes across the back, shoulders, front, need little hand stitches to stay in place. Hours. Conclusion In spite of the difficulties I enjoyed working on this. It involved very different construction techniques than usual, some quite couture.

Burda WOF 8/2006 113 Wrap Top

	10/11/06 2:50 AM
Last Updated:	10/11/06 3:00 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: This is described as "easy to sew yet looks superbly sophisticated due to its cleverly wrapped style." Also "make in the morning - wear in the afternoon." It is indeed quick and easy. Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 34 - 42 which correspond with American sizing 8 - 16. I made size 40 (14). I'm not sure why I did this because I usually make an 8 or 10 in the shoulders with a FBA. I think I was feeling lazy as I considered this throw away fabric. Next time I sew this I will do what I should have done as this is a bit large across the shoulders. This makes it a little fussy to adjust the collar. Edit on 5/4/07: Just realized size 14 is the British sizing. Size 40 is equal to American pattern size 10. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except it fits the model's shoulders better. Also note that the sleeves are pushed up to 3/4 length in the photo. They are really long sleeves. Were the instructions easy to follow? I think they are fine. This is very easy to construct. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the "cleverly wrapped style." The collar and ties take a bit of adjusting to get them just so. I think if it were smaller at the neckline that would be less of an issue. Fabric Used: Very inexpensive semi-sheer sweater knit, probably acrylic. Here is another view from the magazine in a more similar fabric. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. Next time I will shorten the ties around 8 inches so that I can tie it in the back. They are quite long and really hang down to long in the back as is. Here it is with the ties wrapped around the back. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to sew this again in a smooth jersey which I think will be more flattering. I definitely recommend it. Conclusion A great top.

Simplicity 5839 Kimono jacket silk organza

10/8/06 8:18 PM
Last Updated:	10/9/06 12:31 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Simplicity Pattern Information
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: This pattern is a June Colburn design for a Kimono, a Haori, and an Obi. The construction is true to the traditional method with the garments lined. The designer includes instructions on how to tie the obi as well as how the Haori and Kimono would have been worn. The sleeves are made open under the arm providing a "pocket" for carrying a handkerchief. Men wore Haori over their kimono to protect them. Women later adapted the Haori and today it is worn for casual and informal occasions. Generally it is not worn indoors and is made to compliment and accessorize outfits. Pattern Sizing: Size A includes XS, S, M, L and XL. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Sort of. I think mine looks wider than the pictured Haori. Were the instructions easy to follow? They do look to be very detailed and complete. Because of my fabric I needed to alter the order of construction radically, eliminate the lining, and finish all seams appropriate for the sheer fabric. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted something very simple with few seams because of the difficulty of dealing with my fabric. Also I wanted it to be loose fitting to wear over a cocktail dress I was planning to wear to a black tie wedding. This pattern was in my stash and seemed to fill the bill. I would have preferred to use a pattern designed for a sheer just to simplify things but this worked out okay. Fabric Used: Silk organza with sequins, pearls and beads. Remind me never to buy this again!!! Thankfully the pattern was simple because the fabric was such a nightmare. Every bead or pearl that was any where near a seam had to be removed and secured. The sequins I could sew over. Of course the fabric also raveled. In an easy fabric this garment would have taken an hour to make. As it was it must have been 5 or 6. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. If I make this again I will use a more drapey fabric so that it doesn't appear to be so wide. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will use this pattern again as I like the traditional style. I have some celadon dupionni that I purchased with this fabric. I plan to sew a long skirt to wear with this jacket which I think will be a better balanced proportion than with the short skirt. Conclusion Unfortunately it was so hot the day of the wedding that I never wore the jacket. I just put it on for a quick photo shoot. Edit 10/9/06 I have fixed the links to these photos. It appears I will have to go through all my reviews and changed the links since Yahoo has changed the program overnight.

Burda 8217 knit top with stripes

	10/8/06 7:44 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Burda Pattern Information
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
See other patterns in this category:	Top
Available for sale on PR:	Yes
Pattern Description: This is a tee shirt with a difference. Designed for jersey or fine knits with 2 way stretch and described by Burda as close-fitting. Great for a stripe as you can see from the different suggestions drawn on the pattern envelope. Pattern Sizing: Sizes 10 through 22 included in one envelope. I cut a size 12 at the shoulders and armhole and a size 16 at the sides. I shortened the sleeve 2 inches which is a normal alteration for me. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes although mine doesn't appear to be as low cut in the front. It is close fitting through the shoulders and upper arms. If I had cut my normal size 10 it may have been too snug. Here is the back. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy. This is a simple, straight forward garment. The instructions are more complete than often found in Burda, including the suggestion to use a twin needle for the hems and a serger for the seams. I used my coverstitch on the hems. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the diagonal stripes and also the fact that the v-neck is cut on the straight grain so there is less problem with stretching. I also like the vees at the hem-line. Here is another view. Nothing to dislike. Fabric Used: A thin, almost sheer stripe that has been in my stash for 25 years or so. It was a remnant to start with, costing very little. I think it may be partially wool but not entirely or the moths would have devoured it years ago. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely recommend this and hope to sew it again soon. Conclusion A quick and easy top with a little extra pizzaz.

Sewing Workshop Poppy Vest linen stripe

8/21/06 8:09 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
Pattern Description: This Sewing Workshop pattern includes two vests. The Peony Vest is a loose fitting, lined, hip length top with asymmetric fronts, side slits and single button closure. The Poppy Vest, which is the one I made, is close fitting in the upper bodice, a-line and unlined with asymmetric hemlines. The front extends into the collar. The front and back are cut in one piece with a single button closure and bias bound armholes. Pattern Sizing: XS - XXL I made size small with no alterations. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes, exactly Were the instructions easy to follow? Very good instructions. This is an easy garment with just one pattern piece plus bias strips to bind the armholes. As always the Sewing Workshop provides excellent instructions especially on mitering corners which is about all you have to do on this vest. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? No fuss to sew and great to show off a stripe. I disliked that the armholes were too low to wear this as a top. Of course it is described as a vest, shown worn over a long sleeve top. Fabric Used: Striped linen. I had purchased this fabric with another pattern in mind but when I realized the Poppy Vest is just one piece of fabric I decided it would be terrific with the stripe. As you can see the stripe falls horizontally at one side of the front, vertically on the other, and diagonally on the back. Love that. Anotherback view. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I had purchased 3 buttons to use down the front as I thought I would wear this as a top. However I didn't pay any attention to the size of the armholes and now that it is done, I feel they are too loose to wear without something underneath. This could easily by changed if one thought about it ahead of time. I decided to leave off the buttons altogether and use a pin to close or to wear it open. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is a quick, rewarding project if you like the unusual. Lots of style. Conclusion Try it. The skirt is Vogue 7640 which I have made twice before. It is also a great pattern for stripes. I reversed the pieces to make the hemline match the drop on the vest. This pattern includes a terrific jacket which I have made twice also. Here's the other version. I see that it is still available but listed as OOP on the Vogue website so get it while you ca

Burda 8459 dress, Anna Sui print cotton/lycra

8/15/06 8:22 PM
Last Updated:	8/15/06 8:24 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Burda Pattern Information
Pattern Rating:	I Highly recommend this pattern
Pattern Description: A Burda International pattern for a slightly flared dress with princess seams and a princess seam jacket with single button closure. I just made the dress. Pattern Sizing:Sizes 8 through 18 included in the envelope. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except I shortened the dress at least 5 inches. Were the instructions easy to follow? This is a simple design and the instructions are complete and clear. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the simple yet striking shape and ease of construction. Disliked the faced neckline that put the bottom edge of the facing right across the full part of the bust. I had serged the bottom edge of the facing and it showed as a line across the bust. I removed the serging by pinking the edge and the line disappeared. I think the facing should have dropped further down to avoid this problem. Fabric Used: Stretch cotton bright floral Anna Sui design from EmmaOneSock. This is another one of those fabrics that I thought way too loud for me before I sewed it up. Now I love it. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Usually I cut do a FBA and drop the bust line an inch or two starting with a size 10 for the top and a 14 for the bottom. For some reason, and I can't remember why, I followed a different course (I suspect it was lazyness). I cut out a size 14 except for the shoulders where I cut size 18. This was to drop the bust line. I didn't do the FBA. I think I felt it would work because of the stretch in the fabric. That way I didn't have to alter all the panels. Miraculously it worked. The shoulders are a wee bit broad owing to the size 18 but still ok. I substituted an invisible zipper on the back because I had one on hand. It looks a little like it wrinkles on the back but that is only because of my peculiar stance. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Definitely I would make this again and highly recommend it. Conclusion The jacket looks like a winner too.

Simplicity 4095 skirt rayon jersey print

	8/14/06 2:17 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
This pattern includes 2 different tops, pull-on pants and 2 flared skirts all for knits. I have only made the skirt so far. I bought the pattern for the tops but I needed a simple skirt to go with my 1 Plus 3 Tee. This is a 6 panel flared skirt with an elastic waist. I shortened the skirt about 8 inches. 2 or 3 inches would be normal for me as I'm height challenged but this skirt runs very long. I folded 2 inches out at mid-thigh so the flare would be retained at the bottom. But them to achieve the mid-calf length I wanted I needed to chop off a lot more at the bottom. It still has a nice flare and movement. The fabric is rayon/lycra from lucysfabric.com. Instructions for the skirt are fine. I did not sew it with the slit. The other skirt view has an extra panel across the front for a mock wrap look. I will definitely sew this skirt again.

Panache 1 plus 3 Tee orange rayon jersey

8/14/06 1:57 AM
Last Updated:	8/14/06 2:05 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
I made this top from a pattern called 1 Plus 3 Tee (because there are only 1 pattern piece and 3 seams) from Heather Claus' Panache line at the See It, Sew It website. It takes very little time to make this top, maybe 15 minutes if you don't have trouble with your needle coming unthreaded as I did. You enlarge the pattern as per instructions, cut the one pattern piece on the fold and sew 3 short seams. The edges are left unfinished as per the current trend. You could add seam allowances and finish the edges if you want but that will take a bit more time. To wear it you scrunch up the long side allowing the hem to drape diagonally. Here's the back. I sewed the neckline seam an inch longer than suggested but when I make one for my DIL I will leave it more open as she wants to wear it a la Flash Dance. My fabric is a lovely rayon/cotton/lycra jersey, very soft and drapey. I ordered this a year or so ago and one it arrived it startled me with the intense color. Not what I was expecting so I relegated it to the wearable muslin pile. When I decided to try out this pattern I pulled out this fabric for the experiment. Amazingly, I like the color now that it is sewn up. Funny how transformations occur. Sometimes fabric that is wonderful as a piece doesn't sew up look good as a garment. Occasionally the reverse happens. For this outfit it happened twice. Just a week ago I ordered the rayon/lycra skirt fabric from lucysfabrics.com. When it arrived I was alarmed at its brightness. But lo and behold, look how it goes with my bright top. What a pleasant surprise. I recommend this as an unusual, quick to sew top that is easy enough for a beginner.