Sorry I disappeared. I have been sewing in my wonderful new space but haven't been able to get back into the reviewing or blogging mode. I have 20 or 30 projects done in the last few months with no record. Shame on me.

But I must tell you about this project.  I know you all think this dress is a giant muumuu so why bother with it. Even if you don't like very over sized full dresses this pattern has some wonderful elements that make it worth buying. To me, the appliqué and sleeves are delightful details that make the pattern a must have. The appliqué is done by stitching continuous bias to the dress on top of a piece (the stripe) already applied to the dress. Then yarn is couched on top of the bias with a zigzag stitch.

The envelope description is "oversized, pullover dress has side front welt pockets, sleeves bands, tie ends forming drape, wrong side may show, appliqué , trim, decorative stitching, topstitching, and stitched hems". I measure size 16 or 18. I cut size 10 and took 2 inches out of each side seam for an 8 inch reduction around. It is still huge. The pattern photo doesn't highlight the contrast much as they used very close colors. There are 3 different fabrics plus yarn used in this.
I used a medium weight linen for the main fabric, light weight for sleeves and appliqué , and a rayon crinkle for the second contrast (under the appliqué ). All of these, even the yarn trim, were in my stash. The light linen and rayon were remnants. This design uses a lot of fabric so it was nice to find everything I needed on my shelves. I didn't have enough fabric to cut the pockets so they aren't there. I didn't shorten the length at all so you can see that if you are taller than me (5'3") you might want to lengthen it.
Koos gives us lots to enjoy in this pattern. I hope to use the sleeves and embellishment technique again. I might even make the whole dress in a more drapey fabric for a very different look.

Vogue 1309 Miyake Tunic

Where do I start with this?? Many of us loved this striking design and ordered it immediately when it appeared. I do love Miyake and always buy those patterns whether I like them or not. This one looks so great. Let me tell you this is the most befuddling Miyake I have made and I have made many. You don't need to spend much time sewing but lots of time puzzling. And perhaps ripping because you did something wrong or, in my case, think you did something wrong. Rip out and sew back the same way. I fear I may get confused just putting this on and off. It is very easy to get all twisted around.

There are 4 pattern pieces, all rectangles. The very big main piece is a long rectangle that you slash down the middle for much of its length. The slashed edges become the outer edges at the shoulders. This slashed edge is to be bound with bias binding that you make (that is the 4th pattern piece). I don't get why you carefully bind that edge but none of the others. At places the bound edge and unbound edge are sewn together. No mention of finishing the unbound edges. And the bound edges don't really show on the outside.

Careful marking is essential. Be sure to use something that won't fall off or disappear. You really need all those marks, circles, dots and especially the letters. I didn't even see the letters at first as they are very small on the pattern. Also, mark left and right shoulder on the outside. I contemplated leaving the marks on permanently so I would remember which way to put it on!

I couldn't figure out just how to alter to add at the bust so I did a muslin (very rare for me) using the largest size in my envelope which is a 14. I really need 16 or 18 for the bust but never buy that because it is way too big in the upper chest and neck. Maybe it doesn't matter here because those areas are folded under. I discovered that the sizing is entirely controlled by the width of the large rectangle and the width of the smaller underarm rectangles. You can make this wider at necessary but then it may be too big at the hip. Or you could change the shape of the underarm part to accommodate where you need it which is what I did. 

This looks so great in the photos. My knit version looks quite different of course because it drapes like a knit. Done in the suggested fabrics, dupioni, paper taffeta or broadcloth, it will look more like the photo. Be warned though, that it may be uncomfortable and unflattering if the fabric poufs out a lot (as on my muslin).

Here are photos of my muslin. You can see the design lines better here than on the knit. The pink ribbon was just added to extend for fit. Side front, Back, Right side Front

My underarm pieces sagged a lot. I think they stretched while sewing across the top. In a woven this might not happen. I almost left it as a design element but then I realized I could just tuck out the excess since a few more folds would not matter in this design. 

Also be aware that not only is this pretty low cut in center front, butunder the arms it is low and very wide. Your bra may show in theback, front and sides. Note I am wearing a camisole..... essential. Also note that part at the hip in the photo that juts out. That really does jut out. It isn't just the way the model is standing.

You can see that it is really long. I shortened mine 2 inches for my height and may take off another one or two.

The instructions are okay but this is a hard one to explain. One important point is left off and that involves how to keep it from getting twisted and turned half inside out or other weird ways. It helped to drape it on the dress form at times.

I made my muslin and attempted to wear it. I did get it on but it felt like a straight jacket. I didn't notice until my second attempt to sew this that the seam allowances are 1/4". This is not mentioned in the instructions as it should be. It is only in small print in a few places on the pattern pieces.

For trial I used a homespun cotton. After that trial I realized it would be too uncomfortable for me to wear even if it were looser. Also I didn't like the idea of trying to zip a separating zipper on my back. Painful contortions. So I chose to use a rayon jersey. It is very comfortable and no zipper needed. Of course that applied zipper is a very current look and does look cool. 

As mentioned I left off the zipper, I changed to a knit, I widened the underarm pieces. I serged the edges that are meant to be bound. It helps to finish that edge and not the others because it helps you keep straight what you are doing. However, that leads to the aforementioned issue of some edges being finished and others not. I didn't hem this knit.

At first I wrote on Pattern Review that I'm not that happy with this and listed it as Do Not Recommend. However in the knit I find it comfortable and interesting and changed my mind to Recommend with Modifications. I may even make it again now that I really have figured it out. 

Maybe this will work for you. Perhaps if you don't need the FBA or added on for hips it will be right. You know, a more rectangular figure. 

All this said, it is a very interesting design based, as many Miyakes are, on basic geometric shapes. If you like a puzzle this is a fascinating one. See the open drape across the back.

Vogue 1618 Issey Miyake

I finally made this Issey Miyake pattern from 1985. Sometimes it takes me a while to get around to a project! I've been thinking about this one lately because it seems to be on trend now. Miyake designs were never about trends but classic in their on unique way. Even so, for some years this style seemed too loose and too drapey. Now I feel comfortable with that silhouette once again so I brought out the pattern, found fabric in my stash and plunged in. As often the case, it was hard to find a second fabric to work with the first. Once I settled on black it wasn't hard to find that in my stash too.

Here's the envelope description: "Very loose fitting, pullover top with right front drape extending to side with strap, back diagonal seams, concealed cap sleeve on the right side, and wrist length sleeves. View A has a slouchy collar. Straight skirt above ankle, or straight legged pants with elastic waist and mock hem bands. The skirt has a shaped hemline and the wrong side shows". Although it is described as ankle length, you can see that the short side is knee length. The skirt is one piece wrapped around at an angle.

As this is an older pattern, there is only one size per envelope. My pattern is size 14. I folded out 2 inches of width on the top as I usually cut a 10 at the shoulders. It is still very over-sized. The skirt fit as a normal size 14 would.


Miyake is so original, there are usually spots that are counterintuitive and instructions are tricky. Fortunately the only spot that was like this on this design had a very good sketch. Sometimes words are not sufficient.

I love the draped front and odd strap across. Maybe I would have liked to make the top a wee bit narrower. Love the angled skirt. There is no way to make the short part of the skirt longer without the long part also being longer. I shortened the skirt so it wouldn't hit the floor but that brought up the short part to above the knee.

I used a wool gauze stripe and black ribbed cotton knit. On the top the gauze is attached to the black knit although it looks to be a separate draped garment. This is definitely a fun and funky Miyake ensemble that I will enjoy wearing.

Vogue 8776

Pockets

Not the best outfit with this: long sleeves and pants would be better

Back

Open (I like it better closed)

Vogue describes this as a semi-fitted, unlined cape with convertible collar, lower side front seams with pockets and stitched hems. I guess it is a cape. I think of a cape as not having any arm openings and this has them. They providelimited mobility though so maybe we should just go with "cape".  I used size M which is one size smaller than my measurements as usual in an unfitted garment. I made View C, the longest one.


The designation "very easy" is wrong IMO. The slit buttonholes and slit armholes are a bit confusing I think. 

I love the unusual style and shape but I'm not so sure I like the low wearability factor. 

I used a raspberry red boucle that has been in my stash for many years, maybe 25. All this time I thought it was a woven wool. Once I got it down from the shelf I discovered that it is a knit, with a backing similar to fleece. Probably not all wool either as the moths had showed no interest in all that time. I'm quite happy to have this bulky fabric off my shelf. Now if I just had more closet space!

This fabric made the project much harder than it would be with a lighter or thinner fabric. Because of its bulk the buttonhole slits and a few other places were hard to maneuver and required careful hand stitching to make it look right. Because it is a knit, stretch was a factor in sewing seams. I didn't think about it ahead of time as I should have so some seams stretched as I sewed them. The bottom armhole openings grew as they are not reinforced at all. The top armhole openings are doubled with the self facing so they stayed more in shape. Fortunately I used a lining fabric for the pocket lining which helped to stabilize the pocket edge. I left off the extra buttons as the fabric was a nightmare and I knew buttonholes would look terrible.
Have you been watching Project Runway Allstars? Mila made a cape somewhat similar to this pattern. The silhouette is the same but the arm openings are vertical and there is no collar. Very sharp looking.

Vogue 1135 Chado Ralph Rucci dress

 A beautiful dress designed by Ralph Rucci. Intriguing shaped tucks circle around the bodice, skirt and sleeves. Vogue calls this a "lined, A-line dress, fitted at bust, with all over shaped tucks, below elbow length kimono sleeves, gussets, side front slit and back zipper. Braided, self-fabric belt is attached along seam. Asymmetrical hand rolled hems". I see that it is now OOP after only 2 years. Too bad.

This comes in size AAX (4-10) and DD (12-18). I usually cut size 8 or 10 at the neckline, shoulders and sleeves, do a FBA and add extra for waist and hips. My measurements put me between 16 and 18 but I know that is way too big for me above the bust. This time, though, it looked tricky to do the usual FBA and even to add at the side seams because of the tucks, side panel and gussets. Just way too much fuss. The pattern front gives the actual garment measurements at the bust, waist and hips. I saw that the 16 would be a little bit bigger than I am so I cut that planning to do necessary shoulder alterations at the overarm seam. The necklines hardly varied from size to size so I didn't worry about that.

The instructions are very complete except for assumptions that a skilled sewer should be aware of, like trimming seams. Lots of couture techniques such as fusing interfacing over all seams, hand rolled hems, and lining. The side panel and gusset are the only really advanced parts and the instructions are very complete for that part of construction. I guess getting the tucks lined up across the seams and zipper is also a bit tricky. I found one small mistake at step 34 where they forget to mention stitching the facings after instructing you to pin them. They do show the seams stitched in the drawing so that is a no brainer.

I used a poly/rayon/lycra Ponte with a miniscule stripe from Joann's. The pattern calls for moderate stretch knits only such as wool jersey and matte jersey. I read that the original designer dress was made of interlock or double knit. I think that is a better choice than jersey because of all the seams. The stability of double knit made this a lot easier to get all those seams and tucks to be smooth.

I didn't want to use wool, although that would be beautiful, but I knew it would irritate my skin with such a high neckline. The pattern calls for lining (with stretch charmeuse or stretch Crepe de Chine) which would help with the skin sensitivity issue. However the neckline facing uses the fashion fabric. The lining is entirely optional as it is there only to hide all the interior construction. I left it off as I am very concerned about being too warm in this style.

I recurved the outer sleeve seam to make the shoulders narrower and I tapered the back zipper seam in an extra inch starting just below the neck down to below the waist. I shortened the dress 5 inches. Design changes: I left off the braided belt as I want to wear necklaces with this and felt it would be too busy with the belt. The seam under the belt was not sewn into a tuck so I went back and added that to the seam at the end when I decided not to use the belt. This necessitated undoing about 6 inches of the zipper application in the back so it would be better to decide to do this earlier in the game.

I notice in the photos that some of the pieces look darker in color as though I used the opposite side of the fabric or cut them facing a different direction. It puzzled me when I saw the photos. It is caused by the varied grain directions which reflect the light differently. I followed the grain lines carefully so that is just what happens. It isn't that noticeable in normal light.

The slit looks alarmingly high on the model in the photo on the pattern envelope. I stitched mine as indicated and you can see that, on a person of normal height, the slit is not that high on the thigh. My DH's initial reaction was that it looked to be a nun's gown. When he said that I decided to keep the slit.

As I didn't add the lining nor do the hand rolled hems nor make the braided belt this didn't take much longer than many dresses. Of course mine isn't quite couture but it is fine enough for me. Now to have some cool enough weather to wear it!

Vogue 1210 Sandra Betzina dress

Not crazy about wearing it this way

Catching up with some garments I made in the past few months. This Sandra Betzina dress is super comfy to wear but the weather has been way too hot for sleeves and any fabric with lycra in it. Maybe in the next few weeks I can start to wear it. Easy and quick to sew. I should make it again.

Vogue 1238 Miyake dress

I have made many Miyake patterns through the years. Some have been favorites (1476 coat I am still wearing after 25 years) and some have been worn once or never. I always love sewing these patterns as they are unique and often counterintuitive. Fun puzzles and I do love a puzzle. This dress has that Miyake quality although it is quite easy to construct. Nothing that puzzling. However, although it was fun to make, it may only be worn around the house in the hot days coming up. That is because it seems like a muumuu on me. Really full through the bust (no need for a FBA here) and of course wide at the sides. The wide sides don't bother me (see Vogue 1234 review) but the overall fullness through the bust does.

Have you noticed that Vogue's description have become minimalistic to the extreme? This one says "Pullover dress is very loose-fitting at the bust. No provision made for above waistline adjustment". No mention of color blocking, curved seams, bound edges. I used a Medium although my measurements are in the Large range. Obviously I could have cut the Small. Or maybe XS.
 

The envelope photo shows the shoulder pieces front and back cut out of the main fabric. The cutting layout also shows it this way. However the line drawing shows the shoulder pieces cut from the contrast. I did it with the contrast. Of course on the envelope photo you can barely see the difference between the fabrics anyway. I also turned the armhole binding toward the outside to have the contrast there also.

This is one of the easiest Miyake's I have sewn. I did not do the stay stitching called for in the instructions. I have found that often stay-stitching knits causing more stretching. Also I put it together on my serger which helped prevent the seams from stretching. It takes quite a while to sew all those long curves so eliminating the stay stitching (and second row of stitches inside) saved lots of time.

I love the curved, bound neckline. And I love the curved color blocking. Love the floaty coolness for hot weather. Dislike the excessive fullness. The back is pretty cute.

The black is rayon/lycra jersey with stretch in both directions. The black/white dots fabric is rayon/poly blend with no lengthwise stretch. I was concerned that the two different fabrics wouldn't work together but they did. In fact the contrast with less stretch helped keep the very stretchy black in check.

I shortened a few inches at the bottom. I would have like to shorten it further but then you loose the black at the bottom. To shorten further you could take deep seams on all the curved pieces. 

 I intended this as an experiment using remnants. It feels like a nightgown to me but perhaps that stems from my fabric choices.  I don't think I will make this again but it was a fun project.

Vogue 1213 Koos Van Den Akker design coat

 I loved this pattern from the first moment I saw it. Then my friend Dorothy made it and I loved that too. I even got to try it on so I realized the size 12 she made would be big enough for me even though my measurements are a few sizes larger. So the description of loose fitting on the pattern envelope is quite correct. Here's that description: very loose fitting, A-line coat, below mid-knee, has collar, collar band princess seams extending into scallop detail, side front pockets, variety of contrasts, hem facing, decorative buttonhole patch closure, long two piece unined sleeves. 

Pattern Sizing: AA (6-8-10-12) and EE (14-16-18-20). I made size 10 above the bust and size 12 below. I found it still too large in the shoulders and upper chest and took about 1/2 inch out at the sleeves seam in the back. I also took in the princess seam above the bust as it seemed too loose there.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty good, a few mistakes as Dorothy noted. Nothing major though. Lots of pieces and steps but nothing really tricky.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Of course I love the scallops. The buttonhole treatment is wonderful. Dislike certain aspects of the fit. I find it odd that the coat is lined except for the sleeves. Occasionally jackets or coats are lined only at the sleeve to make it easy to put on. I don't think I've ever encountered the opposite before. 

Fabric Used: This amazed me..... I found all these wools in my stash. According to my records I purchased them between 1985 and 1986. I must have been on a teal kick then. They are flannels, tweeds and one challis. That one, with the leaves, I interfaced entirely to make it have a little more body. Even the silk charmeuse lining was in the stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Only the sizing changes as mentioned above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not unless it would be a one fabric one like Sfshaza created. I definitely recommend it to those of you who like something a bit out there.

Conclusion: Fun and funky. I just finished it and before having a chance to wear it I included it in a fiber arts display I was invited to participate in at an art gallery in my town. I wanted a hat for my mannequin to wear since she has a teeny tiny head and looked ridiulous with the big coat. I found a vintage one in my hat collection but I discovered it has a moth hole right in front. To disguise that I made a pouf of the challis fabric. In 6 weeks when I get the coat back from the show it will be too hot to wear it. But next fall I will wear it and wear it with the hat!