Recent projects

Here are some photos of those projects I promised you. I see that I never took a photo of the latest Jalie top. Should have taken a shot yesterday as I wore it for a Mother's day visit to the new baby. The previous post shows the Soho robe/coat. Will I ever catch up?

McCall's 5752 The Perfect Knit Dress

This very popular pattern deserves its reputation and title as "The Perfect Knit Dress", so dubbed by Pati Palmer. It lives up to the suggestion that it is flattering to everyone and easy to sew. I had hoped to finish this before attending the PR weekend so I could wear it on the Pati Palmer day. I didn't quite get it done in the hectic weeks before the event but here it is now.

My pattern was size BB which is 8 - 14. It is also available in size FF, 16- 22. I made 10 in the shoulders and neck, and 14 at the sides. This is my usual combo. I found this fit better than most without additional tweaking or FBA. I lengthened the skirt 2 inches. In the photo I have knotted the front drape but it is constructed just as the pattern shows.

There are extensive instructions on how to alter. I did change the order of construction as suggested by Barbara V in her review on Pattern Review. I see that others have done this also.

I love the ruched waist that hides body issues, especially in the back. I love the cross over that doesn't gap or reveal. I love the soft drape in the front which also helps hide body issues. Maybe I'm dillusional but it does seem to flatter. I think this is a rayon knit, perhaps blended with cotton as it is very soft and cotton-ey feeling. I purchased this 6 years ago from Fabric.com for less than $10. From that I have made this dress plus a maternity top last year for my DIL. What a bargain! I would love to have more of this type fabric.

I really like this dress. It is so comfortable to wear and goes together easily. No wonder many have already made this dress and reviewed it favorably.

McCall's 3404 Kimono top and SW Plaza pant

I found this wonderful 4 ply silk with Kodiak designs at the recent PR LA weekend. I was very pleased to discover that the 4 ply black silk that I've had for years in my stash coordinated with the new silk. So what to make? I definitely wanted an Asian influence in the top and I had planned to make Sewing Workshops Plaza pants ever since I heard Linda Lee rave about how much she loved wearing her 4 ply black silk Plaza pants. Here are my reviews:

Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Info provided by Ann Smith
Pattern :	Easy & Great for Beginners
Pattern Description: This is designed as a loose fitting wrap top with dropped shoulders, tie ends and sleeve variations. You can choose standard or traditional kimono type sleeves. Pattern Sizing: Two combinations: Y which includes Xsmall through Medium or Z which includes Large and XLarge. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes although I would not use the description "loose fitting" as they did. It looks fitted in the drawings and is fitted on me. Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are basic and fine What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wanted an Asian looking top that did not pullover my head. This was one of the few in my stash that fit that description. I chose the traditional kimono sleeve to emphasize the Asian look. I think the ties are a bit too short and would lengthen them if I made it again. Fabric Used: A 4 ply silk with Zodiak designs. 4 ply is a wonderful fabric to use as it usually handles well and drapes beautifully. I had some trouble as I started with silk thread because I was out of my regular black thread. My machine really did not like it and puckered all the seams and darts. I changed needles with no improvement. Eventually I got a hold of some regular cotton wrapped poly thread and redid all the stitching. No problem with that. I don't know if my machine needs an adjustment or what the cause of this problem. Silk thread should have been fine. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I shortened the length by 1 1/2 inches. Also I changed the tie to go around the back underneath the garment. To do this you leave the seam opening on the left instead off the right. I like the garment to fall loosely down the back. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I made this once before but it was quite altered as I lined it to be a jacket. I like it better this way as a blouse. I definitely recommend this to you. Conclusion: A simple but effective top with that Asian influence I like.

Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Info provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Highly Recommend
Current Tags :
Pattern Description: This is Sewing Workshop's wonderful Plaza Jacket & Pant pattern. I have made the jacket several times and the pants once before. It is a very loose-fitting unlined jacket with dropped shoulders, one piece sleeves. The pants are semi-fitted with straight legs and a flat front waistband with back elastic. The pants have a tucked front seam detail. No side seams on the pants. Pattern Sizing: Sizes XS through XXL in one envelope. I made the medium with no alterations except for length. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes indeed. Here's the back. Were the instructions easy to follow? Excellent instructions. Sewing Workshop does a great job with their instructions including interior finishing. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? These are basically a one seam pant that has the added tuck down the front. This is created with a seam but you could eliminate that and have a regular one seam pant. I love the slimming effect of the tuck. Fabric Used: 4 ply silk. Years ago I heard Linda Lee of Sewing Workshop rave about her 4 ply silk pants from this pattern. She wore them several times a week. So I have intended to make a pair myself. I finally got to it when I realized the black 4 ply silk that I had in my stash coordinated with my new Zodiak silk from the recent LA PR weekend adventure. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew this again for sure. Highly recommend.

McCall's 5529 Wrap top/jacket

This is an easy top presented as an unlined jacket. Suggested fabrics are silk, linen, gabardine, wool crepe, wool blends, AND stable knits. I made it from a sort of stable knit which makes it seem more like a wrap top than a jacket. I think all the other fabrics would be more jacket like.

I made this as a gift for my DIL who is 3 inches shorter than me and smaller all over. I fear that it may be too big for her as, in spite of attempting to make it smaller to her measurements, it still fit me except for being a bit short waisted. Hopefully it will still work for her as she can overlap the wrap more and sash it tighter.

The pattern has two peplum styles, gathered and smooth. We chose the smooth one. The pattern also has long sleeves which are pushed up in one view. She decided to go with 3/4 sleeves which was a simple alteration.

I like this top and may make one for myself now that I have the pattern fit to me!!

McCall 4716 with twist drape

4/30/07 8:08 PM
Last Updated:	4/30/07 8:10 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
On a trip recently I saw a top in a shop window that was different from any I had seen. It looked super easy to recreate so here it is. The top was a simple tank with an added collar that draped from one shoulder, around the front neck twisting and continuing around the back neck. It was gathered into the shoulder seam and not attached anywhere across the front. It was stitched to part of the back neckline and then draped under the front shoulder where it started. I neglected to make note as to how wide the collar/drape piece was so I draped some of my fabric to experiment. My fabric is a rayon/cotton jersey that is pretty beefy. This was a remnant so I was limited to a sleeveless garment. I cut a piece 16 inches wide and as long as my remnant allowed. I finished the long edges and gathered one end. I stitched the gathered end into the left shoulder. Immediately I could tell that this would be quite different from the garment I had seen in the store window primarily because of the thickness of my fabric. My drape piece may have been wider but it definitely is thicker. It was almost too much to gather into the shoulder. I liked the look of the drape though so I kept the width. But when I brought the drape around to tuck into the neckline it was very cumbersome. Also, I needed to attach the drape in a few more places than on the original to keep the drape reasonably in place. As you can see I decided to leave the extra length on the end of the drape. I tucked it under the neckline and stitched but let the end drape out of the arm opening. The back collar twists and drapes also. I used McCall's 4716 only for the basic tank and neckline shape. I did not use the collar/drape included with the pattern. If I were to try this again I would use a thinner jersey and a slightly narrower drape piece.

McCall 4261 Mat Bag

Posted on:	4/30/07 8:36 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
Pattern Description: This pattern includes a lot of separate pieces for your exercise classes. Pants, skirt, tee top, bra top, zip hoodie, and a bag for your mat. That is the piece I made. I lost the strap to my mat about 3 years ago and have intended to make a bag ever since. Once I finally got to it it only took about an hour to create. Fabric is a nice quality Asian theme cotton. The strap is webbing from JoAnn's. Pattern Sizing: I measured my mat to be sure the bag was long enough and it was exactly right. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except I added a pocket. Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy to follow and easy to sew. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really liked that it was just the right size for my mat. I am puzzled about the pocket they have included. I cut it out without much thought but fortunately before I sewed it on I reflected a bit on what I needed a pocket for. They show the pocket with a magazine in it. Why do you need to carry a magazine to your yoga/pilates class? A towel maybe but the pocket isn't big enough for a towel. It is too deep for the things I need a pocket for: keys, membership card, sunglasses. So I added a little pocket on top of the big pocket just the right size for my membership card. Now I'm happy. No more mat unrolling in the car all the time. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This took about an hour so I would be happy to make one for a friend who needed one. Conclusion This is the kind of thing that gets admiration from people when you carry it. They think it is so cool and are amazed that you made it. Most have no clue as to how quick and easy it is to create.

McCall 4304 Kimono top

Reviewed by:	Ann Smith	About Ann Smith CA USA Member since: 8/24/02 Reviews written: 155 Sewing skills:Advanced Favored by: 186 people patterns reviewed: 152 Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:	9/7/04 1:50 AM
Last Updated:	9/7/04 11:07 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Recommended, but with modifications
Pattern Description: A kimono style wrap top, loose fitting with dropped shoulders, tie ends and sleeve variations. View B has a contrasting neckband. I sort of made view B in that I embroidered the neckband on one side and applied it to the outside as view B does. Pattern Sizing: 2 size combinations, X-small/Small/Med and Lg/Xlg. I would usually make a Small with a FBA but this time choose to made the Medium as I intend to wear this as a jacket. It was plenty big. In fact, if I were to make this as a blouse I believe I could make the Small without FBA (even though my measurements are in the Medium range). Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Well, not really as I made many changes. Were the instructions easy to follow? OK I think except for the part describing the end of the front facing near the hemline. That was quite vague. Also the underarm situation was tricky and not described clearly. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like that it says "2 Hour Top". With all the changes I made and the troubles I ran into, it became one of those epic projects that never seem to end.....maybe 20 or 30 hours (that includes at least 3 hours searching the internet for a design narrow enough for the front band). Perhaps if you did the top just as described with no seam finishes it could be a 2 hour top. Fabric Used: I used a light weight denim from my stash (yippee) and a contrast lining. The pattern doesn't call for lining as it is supposed to be a blouse. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: In addition to the lining, I embroidered the back with a dragon and the front band. I changed the tie which is supposed to go under the front, out a slit in the right side seam, around the back to tie. I knew I wouldn't want to do that if I were putting this on as a jacket so I moved the left tie to the left side seam so it could be easily tied on the outside. I shortened the top from the view A length about 1 1'2". Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I would make this again as a top. The problems I had were all involved with the embroidery, the lining method I used, red fuzz from the lining getting all over, and a few stupid moves. Conclusion Now that it is finally done, I'm happy.

McCall 4386 skirt

Reviewed by:	Ann Smith	About Ann Smith CA USA Member since: 8/24/02 Reviews written: 155 Sewing skills:Advanced Favored by: 186 people patterns reviewed: 152 Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:	2/24/04 0:22 AM
Last Updated:	2/24/04 0:45 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I Highly recommend this pattern
Pattern Description: Skirts with a faced waist, side zipper closure and handkerchief hemline. Skirt A has bias flare; skirt B is lapped at the front. I made view A. That is the description on the envelope. What it doesn't tell you is that skirts have a yoke, not just a faced waist. And most interestingly, skirt A (except for the yoke) is only one piece. This reminds me of an Issey Miyake design. Such a simple concept and very cool. The skirt piece is sort of a flattened circle which takes almost the entire 60 inch width of the fabric. It is simply stitched to the prepared yoke. Pattern Sizing: 4 size combinations 4-6-8-10, 8-10-12-14, and 12-14-16-18. It seems to be the same length for all sizes. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Here's the back Were the instructions easy to follow? Excellent instructions. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm just crazy about the design. I really had no idea until I got ready to cut it out that it had such a neat concept. Can you tell I like this pattern? I also really like that the size ranges overlap. Fabric Used: A wool/rayon blend paisley that I also used for the Loes Hinse Lugano Jacket I recently reviewed. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't alter for size at all. I am 5'3" and didn't shorten it so you can judge the length for yourself. I fringed the hem to coordinate with my jacket. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I guess you can tell that I would like to sew this one again. Conclusion Easy to make and an effective design. What more can we ask for?

McCall 3091 NYNY OOP Irridescent Jacket

11/26/02 10:09 PM
Last Updated:	11/26/02 10:30 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	I would definitely sew this pattern again
This is an OOP McCall's NYNY pattern from 2001 that includes a dress, pants and a jacket. I have received a request to review it so here goes. I have only made the jacket although I keep looking at the dress as it looks very attractive. Maybe this spring... The jacket is very easy and straightforward sewing. No problems that I can recall. I made the 10 with 12 at the sides although my measurements are closer to the 14, or even 16 in the bust. There is plenty of room as it is a loose fitting design. I did shorten the length by 2 inches. It has a very nice collar, easy to construct. The back detail is nothing more than a simple tuck My fabric is a shiny, irredescent, taut weave, of unknown fiber. Perhaps acetate, or a blend of some sort. I just loved the copper/taupe color combination. The pattern calls for dupioni, linen, or shantung so I figured it had similar characteristics. It seemed to work out quite well. I teamed this with Burda #8786 skirt

McCall 4007 top and pants

Reviewed by:	Ann Smith	About Ann Smith CA USA Member since: 8/24/02 Reviews written: 154 Sewing skills:Advanced Favored by: 185 people patterns reviewed: 151 Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:	5/17/03 3:59 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Recommended, but with modifications
This pattern features a sleeveless wrap top with an Asian flair and pull-on pants. The pattern also includes a long sleeve version and a dress length version. It is a Palmer-Pletch classic fit pattern with sizing; BB(8-10-12-14), DD(12-14-16-18, FF(16-18-20-22). I made it out of a medium weight linen. The pattern includes extensive instructions for fitting for both the top and the pants. I tissue fit the top, added the full bust alteration which I need and it seemed that it would fit correctly. But once made up in the fabric it was huge. I'm not sure why the tissue fitting didn't reveal this. I was able to make it fit by taking in the side seams a lot. The pattern photo shows it fitting closely. To achieve the same look I ended up with 2 sizes smaller than I usually wear. If you observe carefully, you will notice that the cross-over is reversed on my garment. This occurred because the directions for the band are very poor, particularly in describing attaching the ties to it. By following the sketch, I was able to figure it out but that resulted in the short tie end being attached to the wrong side. When I discovered this I considered ripping it out to make the correction, but it had been trimmed already and was fussy. I then realized that by leaving it the reversed way, I could lap left over right and bring the tie around on the inside to tie on the right. The pattern shows the long part of the tie going around the outside of the back, then tying on the left. I decided I preferred not having the tie on the outside anyway. I didn't make the pants in the pattern but used Loes Hinse Cruise pant instead because I've made that before and knew it fit. The width around the pant leg hem is the same but the McCalls pattern had a much deeper crotch curve and more fullness around the upper leg than the LH pattern. I like the style of this outfit and, now that I have figured out the problems, will make it again. It is quick to sew and will be very wearable in my hot summer climate. I find it difficult to come up with outfits with style that are also casual enough to wear to many summer activities. I think this will fill that need well.

McCall 9572 top

Reviewed by:	Ann Smith	About Ann Smith CA USA Member since: 8/24/02 Reviews written: 154 Sewing skills:Advanced Favored by: 185 people patterns reviewed: 151 Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:	12/31/02 5:25 AM
Last Updated:	12/31/02 5:34 AM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
I decided to make this top as part of my new policy to use the leftover fabric from a project right away....if possible. I have always carefully folded up the remnants and put them away, thinking I will sew them one day. Well, you know what happens. That someday never arrives. There is always new fabric showing up. So, I apologize for the out of print pattern. It surfaced as I rummaged through the pattern stash for something that would use a very small amount of fabric. I didn't have any full width of fabric left, just odd shapes. This top is laid out on the bias which worked with my odd shaped remnants. Since it was leftover bits, I became bold and didn't follow the instructions. The pattern called for neck and armhole facings. I just turned under and topstitched, a la Loes Hinse. That worked fine. I did have trouble with the bottom hem. It is all bias of course and stretchy. I used fusible bias tape but it still fluffs out a bit. The McCalls instructions don't give any guidance with this problem.

McCall 9551 Hat

Reviewed by:	Ann Smith	About Ann Smith CA USA Member since: 8/24/02 Reviews written: 154 Sewing skills:Advanced Favored by: 185 people patterns reviewed: 151 Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:	12/29/02 4:23 PM
Last Updated:	12/29/02 4:26 PM
Pattern Size:	Regular
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo:	McCall Pattern Information Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith
Pattern Rating:	Easy to sew
I had some scraps of fleece leftover from recent projects and this pattern from a recent 99 cent sale. The two came together accidentally to result in 2 hats. This was a fun and quick project. The first hat, in grey fleece view here was too big and fell over my eyes. My head measured between 22" and 23" and I had cut the bigger size. I took a tuck in the back to fix it. For the second (raspberry fleece) hat I cut the smaller size. This involved a shorter band and also smaller circles for the top of the hat. I like the look of the overall smaller hat better. The fleece stretches quite a lot so I would make the smaller size even for a larger head. This is a very quick project, 30 minutes at most. and a fun way to use up some of those bits of fabric leftover. The pattern includes 6 or 7 hats, scarves, a bag, and a roll-up blanket. These are all designed for fleece. My pattern is numbered P337 but I see it numbered as 9551 also.