Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Hot Patterns Patchoulli Dress blue rayon jersey

1/9/06 2:12 AM
Last Updated:1/9/06 2:16 AM
Pattern Size:Regular
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith

Pattern Rating:I Highly recommend this pattern

Pattern Description: I'm happy to be reviewing my first Hot Pattern design. I'm quite pleased with the outcome. This is the Boo-deluxe Patchouli dress described as "demure but ultra-glamorous". It is semi-fitted with sightly raised waistline, gathers under bust at front and back, V neckline with self bound edge and ruffle. The dress has flared 3/4 length sleeves with band and ruffle and a 4 gore below-knee length skirt with a self fabric ruffle.

Pattern Sizing: I used the Slinky Girl size 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think so. The slightly raised waistline doesn't look as raised as it should. I think the 4 way stretch of my jersey has allowed the waistline to drop a bit beyond my alteration. Here's a look at the back.

Were the instructions easy to follow? For the most part this is an easy project and the instructions were okay. Other reviewers have mentioned omissions and these are indeed true. In addition I found the instructions erratic... thorough description of one thing and nothing about other things.

Those of you that have looked at this line of patterns know that there is a list of skills needed at the top of the instruction page. On this pattern it is suggested that one needs to be able to 1) Under-stitch and stay-stitch a seam. This is never mentioned specifically during the steps of construction. I guess you need to know when to do it as well as how to do it. 2) Prepare & apply a fluted neckline & sleeve trim. I'm not sure just what this means but I did have trouble with the neck binding. The instructions start with a good description of applying the binding but stop short of the tricky part. If you follow their way, which I did, you start at center front with the binding and bring it around the neckline to meet at the center. Doing this results in 6 layers of fabric that are seamed at an angle, creating 12 layers. I really struggled with this and even after trimming out as much of the bulk as possible it still looks lumpy. Also I had to hand stitch the seam as I couldn't figure any other way to do the seam. I'm not happy with the final look of it but can hide it with a strategically placed pin. This was the only part of the construction that was not easy. 3) Gather & apply a ruffle. Not much trouble here except for the length of the skirt ruffle. I haven't done that much gathering since we made dirndl skirts in 8th grade. 4) Insert a centered side seam zipper. I skipped this as my knit fabric allowed me to slip the dress over my head.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style. I wasn't sure if I would like the ruffles on me but I'm quite pleased with the look. My husband loves it.

Fabric Used: A wonderful rayon jersey from EmmaOneSock.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual FBA and lowering of the bust line. I shortened the sleeves 1 1/2 inch which is also usual for me. I didn't shorten the skirt length at all as I thought it looked more flattering with the extra length. So, since I am 5' 3" it is longer than intended.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely recommend this. I had no trouble with the sizing. Although the instructions are spotty in places they work for the most part.

Conclusion I'm very pleased with my new dress. It is incredibly comfortable partly due to the lovely soft fabric but also the relaxed fit of the styling. It will be simple to alter the dress when I lose the 5 pounds gained between Thanksgiving and Christmas (think positively) as the sleeve, bodice, and skirt side seams are sewn last.

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