Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Burda WOF 1/2006 127 Jacket embroidered satin

1/29/07 6:20 PM
Pattern Size:Regular
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith

Pattern Rating:Difficult, but ended up with good results

This project began with the arrival of the fabric, an embroidered, quilted polyester satin which was an impulse purchase from FabricMartFabrics. They have such good deals! I thought I would make a Chinese style jacket from it. But then I remembered I had a black/white Riri zipper that wanted to be used. So I set about looking through my vast pattern stash to find an appropriate zip front jacket. All of them required a longer zipper than mine. I decided I could use the shorter zipper if I didn't have the zip go out along the collar edge. That led me to this pattern.

Pattern Description: A sporty, fitted jacket with zip front, set in sleeves and kangaroo pouch pocket.

Pattern Sizing: This is in the Burda size range 34 - 40. I did size 40 with a FBA adding about 3 inches. I also added some extra to the all the vertical seams because the tissue fitting seemed to show the design ran snug and the photo in the magazine seems to indicate a close fit. In the end I took out all the extra. It now fits with plenty of ease for a garment underneath. Here's the back.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does except for all the changes (see below) and the looser fit.

Were the instructions easy to follow? This design had lengthier instructions than usual for Burda. However, although they are accurate, the description of how to do the patch pockets, cuffs, facing and lining, are hard to follow without any pictures. If you are not familiar with how to do these things use a book to help you. The Burda instructions are confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked that it is nicely shaped, not boxy. I love the collar. I didn't need all the extras....zip pockets, tabs, zip sleeve closures, etc. although they are fun.

Fabric Used: Embroidered and quilted polyester. It is quilted to some kind of interfacing that dissolves if you touch it with an iron. After melting a few places I started being very careful with the iron. A press cloth helped but it would still melt with that, just not as badly. Red satin lining for fun.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As you can see I eliminated all the extra elements (zips, pockets, tabs) because of the surface interest of my fabric. I also used the selvege of my fabric (which was the black satin base fabric without the embroidery) to trim the edge of the kangaroo pocket, the sleeve cuffs, and the collar. I didn't have the zipper go out to the end of the collar. And here's the silly part. After picking this pattern so I could use the black and white Riri zipper, I didn't like how it looked when I got to that part of the construction. I changed to a solid black zipper that I had on hand. I liked its look a lot better I guess because it echoes the black trim. So I still need to use that expensive zipper...

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would make this again if I need another sporty jacket. It took a while to construct what with the trim and the lining but it went together easily. It always slows me way down when I make design changes because I have to ponder quite a while. Just putting the trim on the patch pocket puzzled me for a while. It is actually a pretty easy garment if you can decipher the instructions.

Conclusion I'm pleased with my new jacket.

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