Vogue 1213 Koos Van Den Akker design coat

 I loved this pattern from the first moment I saw it. Then my friend Dorothy made it and I loved that too. I even got to try it on so I realized the size 12 she made would be big enough for me even though my measurements are a few sizes larger. So the description of loose fitting on the pattern envelope is quite correct. Here's that description: very loose fitting, A-line coat, below mid-knee, has collar, collar band princess seams extending into scallop detail, side front pockets, variety of contrasts, hem facing, decorative buttonhole patch closure, long two piece unined sleeves. 

Pattern Sizing: AA (6-8-10-12) and EE (14-16-18-20). I made size 10 above the bust and size 12 below. I found it still too large in the shoulders and upper chest and took about 1/2 inch out at the sleeves seam in the back. I also took in the princess seam above the bust as it seemed too loose there.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty good, a few mistakes as Dorothy noted. Nothing major though. Lots of pieces and steps but nothing really tricky.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Of course I love the scallops. The buttonhole treatment is wonderful. Dislike certain aspects of the fit. I find it odd that the coat is lined except for the sleeves. Occasionally jackets or coats are lined only at the sleeve to make it easy to put on. I don't think I've ever encountered the opposite before. 

Fabric Used: This amazed me..... I found all these wools in my stash. According to my records I purchased them between 1985 and 1986. I must have been on a teal kick then. They are flannels, tweeds and one challis. That one, with the leaves, I interfaced entirely to make it have a little more body. Even the silk charmeuse lining was in the stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Only the sizing changes as mentioned above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not unless it would be a one fabric one like Sfshaza created. I definitely recommend it to those of you who like something a bit out there.

Conclusion: Fun and funky. I just finished it and before having a chance to wear it I included it in a fiber arts display I was invited to participate in at an art gallery in my town. I wanted a hat for my mannequin to wear since she has a teeny tiny head and looked ridiulous with the big coat. I found a vintage one in my hat collection but I discovered it has a moth hole right in front. To disguise that I made a pouf of the challis fabric. In 6 weeks when I get the coat back from the show it will be too hot to wear it. But next fall I will wear it and wear it with the hat!

Little knit dress for Sierra

A while back a showed off the little dress I knit for my DIL's baby shower. Finally Sierra is big enough to wear it. I didn't know what her coloring would be but with her dark her I think the strong color is great. I'm so pleased with how she looks.

Here's the original post about the dress

Vogue 1232 Pamella Roland dress

If you are contemplating sewing up this pretty dress let me warn you. It is an epic project. It looks innocent enough in the photo but this dress could be worn into battle it is so thoroughly constructed. I guess if you are going to sell for $2000 or so as the Pamella Roland original did, you need to having something to show for it. Here are some statistics: 24 different pattern pieces to cut from the fashion fabric, 14 pieces to cut from interfacing, 9 pieces of lining. The bottom hem is 10 yards around (yes!! 30 feet around the flounces) and altering for bust, waist, hips involves many pieces including the flounces. It is very complex to alter. The dress is quite weighty what with all that interfacing, lining and 4 yards of 58 wide fabric. I mean, there are only a few little scraps left. Because my fabric wasn't quite the 60 inches wide that is called for, I needed to shorten the 3 flounce pieces an inch. I would have done that any way for my height.


That said it is a very nicely drafted pattern with good instructions for the most part. Some parts of the lining construction are pretty confusing but clear enough if you ponder the drawings long enough. Mostly it is just very time consuming. Lots of stay stitching and easing curved seams.


It looks like a wrap dress but really it is sewn shut at the front and access is through a side zipper. I'm pleased that the front stays closed even though it is only sewn together at the waist.


The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly lining.


One thing I did that helped me a lot was to label every piece with a bit of blue painter's tape stuck to the right side with the pattern number and name (RF, lower RF, etc.). With so many pieces and the right and wrong side exactly the same it would be super easy to get a piece in the wrong place.


The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly lining. I plan to make the matching covered belt but I'm waiting on a vintage belt kit. Might as well go for the whole deal.


I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.

Envelope description: Close fitting, lower calf at center back length, lined dress has front darts, front and back princess seams, lapped fronts, shaped lower edge, gathered flounce, armhole overlay, collar with collar band, left side invisible zipper, self-fabric flower with large and small petals and pin back, self-fabric belt and thread belt carriers. 
I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.

Another Au Bonheur review

I made up another of the Au Bonheur patterns I ordered recently. This time a funky pair of pants. It is a fitted pant with an unusual banded bottom edge. The band is sewn on so that it forms folded peaks. A stretch fabric is required for as you can see it fits very closely. I raised the rise about 2 inches to hang from just below my waist and I eliminated the front zip. I also eliminated the waist facings to use elastic instead.

The pants are pretty simple to construct with the bottom band being the only thing different from many pants. Basically you sew all the long seams leaving the center front and center back seams open for the bottom 6 inches or so. Sew the crotch and side seams. Then you stitch the bottom bands to the bottom of each leg. The odd part is that the band will turn 6 corners going around each pant leg. You will need to stay stitch the edge and slash to each corner to make a smooth seam. They don't mention stay stitching or slashing at all. Since there are no markings for where you should reinforce and slash I found it easy to stitch the entire length of the band, pin it in place and then slash at the corners. Hope this make sense.

I think this pant only looks good with the cropped length. Sfshaza tried these and didn't like the look but she lengthened them to full length. I think that creates too much fabric puddling around your ankles. 

I used a light weight denim with lycra. The sizing requires a stretch fabric. It doesn't suggest a knit but I think you could use one that has some stability to it. I started to make the size larger after my experience with the coat sizing. I actually made a muslin which is a rarity for me. I usually just fit as I go after a tissue trial. After running up the muslin in size 42 I could see that was too big, cut it down to 40 and found that that worked. It may not be the perfect fit for me but close enough.

I'm enjoying these patterns. Even the translating is fun although it seems a bit like homework for my high school French class.

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains Coat

I've been eager to try the French pattern company Au Bonheur des Petites Mains after seeing some reviews here on PR especially those of Sfshaza. Here is her recent coat review that spurred me on to buy some of the patterns. I chose this coat which they title "Manteau a Decoupes" which translates literally to "cut coat". This would refer to the unfinished seams sewn to the outside I guess. The coat is fitted through the bodice and flares out at the skirt. There are multiple seams that are stitched wrong sides together leaving the raw edges to show and create an interesting effect. As the edges are unfinished it is important to use a fabric that doesn't ravel. I was very amused at the translation of the suggested fabric. They call for "polaire" which Google translates as artic. I'm guessing this means fleece.

This pattern comes in French sizes 36 to 44 in one envelope. I chose size 40 based on my waist and hip measurement planning to do a 3 inch FBA. When I did a muslin fitting I discovered that the pattern is very snug through the hips. Really there is no ease at all with the garment measuring the same as the given hip measurement for the size. But the shoulders were big on me. I did quite a bit of altering, both at the muslin stage and as I put the actual garment together. I was so focused on fitting in the upper body area that I didn't pay any attention to the length. It turns out the coat is very long and, though I shortened the torso and the sleeve length, it still seems long through the upper body to me. Of course I am 5'3" and it is probably designed for someone 5'7".


There are minimal instructions in French. I enjoyed the exercise of translating them with the help of Google Translate and glossary.  I used a fulled wool blend from Fabric Mart. I steamed the wool to further felt it. Lovely fabric to sew on. I'm happy to have another piece waiting in my stash.

I added at the bust and side seams, took away at the shoulders, back neck and armholes. Also I took away some that I had added at the side seams and shortened the sleeves and the overall length. I also omitted the zipper that is applied on the diagonal front. I didn't think I would ever really zip it up but I may add it if I feel the coat shifts around too much when I wear it.

Once you get passed the fitting issues, this is very easy to construct. If you add just 1/4" seam allowances you can save time from trimming all those seams down. There are no facings or hems and the collar is a single layer. I think it is a fun coat.

Vogue 2949 Sandra Betzina Jacket

This jacket pattern became one of my favorite garments. See the previous review at http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=25551. That jacket sewed up in about an hour beginning to end and is wonderful. Now this one that I will be discussing today was the opposite: took forever and is not wonderful. However this change was entirely due to the fabric so if you are only interested in the pattern, stop reading.

The fabric may hold the record for being in my stash the shortest amount of time before being cut, maybe 2 hours. As I unpacked it from the delivery box, I realized it was quite different from what I had envisioned from its on-line photo and description. I didn't like it that much but it was very expensive. I knew if I didn't use it right away it would sit forever in my stash. I could see that the coat pattern I had in mind would not work as the fabric was too thick without much drape. Not good for tucks. So I searched around for other patterns. I had planned a coat but decided this would look more like a bathrobe if it were long. So I switched to jacket mode, even though I would have a large expensive remnant. I also decided to show the back side which shows the quilting better and thought I would show the white finished selvage. Thus the lining fabric I had ordered would not be used. I got out this favorite pattern thinking I had found just the thing. Ha.

The fabric is unique and interesting but the least stable fabric I have ever encountered. It consists of strands of fluffy wool yarn (the white) sandwiched between thin sheer wispy silk (gray on one side and black on the other). This silk shreds as you look at it. The yarn batting is barely held together with cross-wise stitching. So as you cut this it falls apart. I dealt with this by immediately serging all edges. That helped stop the raveling but stretched the edges, even with the serger set on differential feed.

I decided to finish the edges with a dense over-lock stitch using woolly nylon to fluff up and finish the edge. I'm almost happy with that decision. I really regret using this pattern though because as it is unlined the fragile shredding silk on the inside looks bad and won't last well. At the end I decided to turn the lower hem in and top-stitch it as the over-locked edge looked too squirrelly. I may do the same with the sleeve hems.

I decided to use the lower back piece on the jacket so it would be a change from my previous version. Boy did that look ridiculous in this fabric. In this photo you can see the white selvage edge I was mistakenly trying to preserve. Be sure you use a drapey fabric for that folks! My solution was to fold the drape forward and stitch it into a pocket-like shape. I am rather pleased with this idea. 

I still love this pattern but will stick to a boiled wool or other fabric that doesn't need an edging or something very drapey and thin enough to turn back the edges.

Reviewing the year

That was a long stretch without attention to my blog! True, I have been away from home a lot during the last 6 months, especially this fall. Trips to Jackson Hole in November and another 17 days at Christmas and New Years, 27 day trip to South Africa in September and October. I did squeeze in a little sewing but not as much as usual and have dropped behind in both blogging and reviewing on PR. I haven't even entered fabric purchases and projects into my data base. But now I am looking forward to two months at home I think. Time to get catch up and get moving.


So I'm looking at my project list and I'm surprised at how much is there since I seem to be away so much. Here's how it breaks down: 8 jackets/vests, 6 skirts, 2 pants, 17 knit tops, 3 woven tops, 3 tunics, 3 dresses, 1 robe, 2 coats, 1 nightgown, and a few misc. baby items. That is 46 items not including baby. I'm amazed because it seems I went months without sewing a thing. This includes 18 Vogues, 6 Sewing Workshops, 1 Shapes, 6 Jalies, 3 McCalls, 2 Burda Magazine, 5 Burda envelopes, 1 Hot Patterns, 1 Simplicity, 2 LJ Designs, 1 Taos skirt, 1 Japanese book, 1 Kwik Sew. 


It seems a lot but considering some items were using a pattern several times, I can see I buy way, way too many patterns.  But in spite of that fact, I just ordered 4 new patterns from the French company, Au Bonheur de Petite Mains. I'm quite excited to try these.

Mud Cloth Plaza Jacket

I recently returned from a wonderful trip to South Africa where I was happy to be able to buy a piece of true african mud cloth. Do you know about mud cloth? It is hand woven by men in Mali using their own hand for the loom. Because it is woven on the hand each strip of fabric is just about 5 inches wide. These strips are then sewn together to form a textile about a metre wide. Once sewn together the women dye the piece using traditional symbols all of which have some meaning to them. They use natural dyes in earth tones, black, brown, tan, olive. Mud is used as a resist in the dying process. My piece was about 2 metres long which seemed to be typical. As you can see mud cloth is a very dramatic textile.

I had in mind a different pattern but, once home and after washing/shrinking, I realized I really had very little fabric to deal with. The Plaza Jacket is perfect as it uses very little. Even so I had to fold out 5 1/2 inches on the front and back to fit on my narrow fabric. As you can see the jacket is still very wide! I lengthened the jacket also to use all my fabric adding about 2 inches to the length.

Speaking of the washing/shrinking, I carefully washed the fabric in cold water as recommended. I knew it would fade and the color would bleed into the white areas to make them less bright. Even so it was necessary to wash the textile as it came with a very "natural" odor. To my surprise, not only did it fade and bleed, but it turned my dryer into a brown mess. I had to wash down the inside of the dryer to remove all the crud. I washed it a second time throwing 3 of those dye catching papers into the wash. They came out dark bown but the textile looked a lot better. This time the dryer stayed clean.

As to sewing mud cloth, I'm glad I picked a design with few seams or details. This was a bear to sew. Even the serger didn't like it. I broke needles on both machines and even with a heavy duty needle, I needed to sew very, very slowly. It is like a heavy burlap.

There was a stripe on the selvedge edge of the textile so I eliminated the turned back hems on the front edges and sleeve hems so that I could use it as a design element.

I'm very pleased with my mud cloth jacket.

Vogue 7802 Sandra Betzina skirt

Finally I got time for a photo shoot. Here is my wonderful Moulin Rouge fabric turned into a can can skirt. I acquired this fantastic Moulin Rouge fabric some years back. Every so often I would get it out to try to envision what it should become. You know how it goes..... look through lots of patterns, pick a few, not enough fabric for those, try again, nothing inspires, put the fabric away for a few more years. The more you love a fabric the longer this process goes on it seems. Finally I decided it would be a skirt using this Sandra Betzina pattern with black trim. Since I so loved my fabric I did a rare thing for me. I made a muslin. You know... to check the fit. Hated that skirt. Put the project aside again. Changed my plan to making a jacket or shirt. Bought 3 more skirt patterns. In the end, as you can see, I went back to the SB pattern. I realized that the muslin was ugly because of a)fabric used b) no contrast trim c) no whimsy. Fit was fine. Just needed to add the whimsy.

So I threw this fabric out on the cutting board and with trepidation cut my precious. Now I'm so happy with my skirt!

I think this is a vintage cotton, probably designed to be for curtains in the 40s or 50s? Anyone know?

I left off the bias trim at the hem and waist. I added an underskirt with tulle. I made that by serging tulle to an old slip. I did multiple tucks to the lower skirt.

I remember seeing Sandra wear this skirt some years ago and it looked fantastic because of her quilted fabric with leather trim. Her patterns always look much better in person in her chosen fabrications than they do on the pattern envelopes. This was even photographed in her fabrics but maybe it just has to have her wearing it to look fantastic.

Catching Up

Wow it has been a crazy summer. 3 reunion trips, 2 trips to Jackson Hole to see the kids, multiple trips to Bay Area involving DS#2 home purchase and move in, home only a few days since June. Home now for 2 weeks and finally getting caught up but soon will be off again on an international trip for a month. So now I have been sewing and loving it, finishing up some projects and dreaming up others.

Today I made a skirt from a fantastic vintage fabric that has been in my stash for almost 10 years. I loved the fabric so much I had a hard time deciding what to make with it. I think it was a drapery fabric from the fifties maybe, depicting Moulin Rouge subjects. Photos soon.

See my reviews listed at the right to see what I have been up to in the few weeks I have been at home. How will I ever use up my stash if I am never at home???

Vogue 1165 Sandra Betzina blouse

Where do I start? This was the project from h**l. Who would expect it? Not I. I have had lots of success with Sandra Betzina patterns. Usually her instructions are excellent and the fit works for me with my usual alterations. The one other reviewer of this blouse here on PR didn't seem to have any trouble. Maybe I have lost it. Indeed, some of my issues were caused by myself but most came from problems with the pattern. I would say probably driving a pin through my thumb was my own fault although if I hadn't had to redo the sleeve after trimming the seam allowances I would not have had that pin so near my thumb. A little neosporin and a bandaid fixed that mishap.

Here's the pattern description from the envelope: "A line shirts with pleat detailing and darts in front, choice of snap or button closures. View A has long, pleated sleeves with placket. View B has three quarter length sleeves". I would call the front detailing tucks as they are not pleats. This has Today's Fit sizing A through J. I cut my usual size B at the shoulders, sleeves, and neckline and size C at the sides except I added even extra in the seam allowances there.

It looks like the pattern photo especially since I used a white fabric. My tucks pucker. Not surprising since they are all sewn on the bias. I happened to look at the Power Sewing forum where Sandra answers questions about her patterns. Someone had asked about the puckering tucks problem on her own project. Sandra said she has made the blouse 3 times and never had a puckering problem. She suggested a technique to help with that using a fusible thread inside the tuck. Of course at this point all my tucks were sewn so I didn't try that. I've decided that the puckers are a design feature.

Another problem I had with the tucks involved my marking technique. It is very important to mark the lines carefully. Sandra suggests tailors tacks. I started doing that but it was way too time consuming. So I switched to a tracing wheel and transfer tracing paper. Of course I used red to show up on the white. (I just got out the transfer paper envelope and there I see that they admonish me not to use red or blue on white fabric. Why do I notice these things after the fact?) I also did it on the wrong side since I usually mark on the wrong side. Once the tucks are sewn the marking is on the inside and were very resistant to removal. After lots of blotting with water and scrubbing with soap I finally resorted to washing the whole blouse front, soaking it with lots of suds, to be sure it would come out before I spent more time on the project. At that point things had gone along okay and I hadn't put a whole lot of time into this. Little did I know, what with the collar and sleeves and other issues that this blouse would take around 20 hours to sew!

There were a few problems with the instructions. The collar was quite confusing primarily because on the pattern piece it says to cut 2 on the fold. I did that and interfaced as instructed. I spent a great amount of time trying to make the collar work with both those pieces. Finally I looked at the cutting layout and noticed that only one collar piece was shown. That helped. It made a lot more sense with only one collar piece. However there was still a problem with step 24 and it's illustration. If you have done this type of procedure before you will be able to do this but not because of the instructions in this pattern. It would be simple to make it clear by saying "temporarily tuck the body of the shirt inside the collar to stitch around the corner of the collar to make a clean facing." But they didn't say that.

My next issue with the instructions involved the sleeve placket. I have done these before but it has been a long time as I don't make shirts much. The instructions were vague. Sandra says "if sleeve plackets and neckbands are your nemesis, I have made a DVD called "Shirts and Blouses" where construction is demonstrated in close camera work." A few more words in the pattern instructions would have been more helpful.

About the sleeves: Sandra has this sleeve sewn in flat. I'm not sure why except some sewers think that is easier. Not in this case. The sleeve has a high curve with easing and was not easy to sew in flat. She does mention to sew with the sleeve on top. I stupidly ignored this particular instruction because I like to have the sleeve underneath to allow the feed dogs to help with the easing. However in this case, because of the curve of the sleeve cap, it is very hard to stitch around that curve without catching the sleeve in the stitching if it is underneath. Don't ignore this instruction. I serged the sleeve edge with the garment on top and this led to disaster. Yes, I cut a slash in the sleeve top with the serger blade.  This is why I had to rip the sleeve off, cut a new sleeve, sew on another annoying placket and resew the sleeve in place (this time with the sleeve on top).

Finally after all this trouble with the sleeves I finally got to the point where I could put on the shirt only to find that the sleeves were too tight at the sleeve cap. Never have I had this as a fitting issue. Usually sleeves are too loose on me. Maybe my arms have grown lately. Once again I removed the sleeves and sewed them on with the tiniest possible seam allowance (which led to pin in finger episode). They are still a bit tight and not terribly comfortable but wearable if I don't raise my arms or try to dance.

Next the cuffs: not too much trouble here. If you have figured out the collar sandwiching then the cuffs will be easy. One small issue on the cuffs: if you use the size button recommended and place the buttonholes as marked on the pattern, the buttons will bump into each other.

Before I started this epic adventure I thought I liked the style with the diagonal tucks and spread collar. Now I don't. I did like several nice tips that Sandra included. One was to use Steam-a-seam 2 Lite for the hem applying it to the right side of the fabric at the edge. Then you iron up the 5/8ths hem while the paper is still on the steam-a-seam. After the hem is ironed up you remove the paper and turn under the 1/4" edge and press it in place. This makes a curved, turned under hem very easy. I was happy to use that trick on another project with curved flat felled seams.

I used a white pima cotton with a woven in design purchased in Cairo a few years back. My size alterations were as mentioned above. Also I dropped the dart which I always have to do. The problem with doing that is that the lower dart will cross into the tucks. Thus one must shorten the dart. Of course I didn't realize this until after the fact so a bit of ripping and restitching was necessary.

Now that I am recovering from this experience I am liking the style again. Hopefully some of my suggestions might help you if you try this. This garment has 53 steps of construction, some of which are confusing. Why is it labeled "Easy"?

Recent projects

Here are some photos of those projects I promised you. I see that I never took a photo of the latest Jalie top. Should have taken a shot yesterday as I wore it for a Mother's day visit to the new baby. The previous post shows the Soho robe/coat. Will I ever catch up?

Sewing Workshop Soho Coat

Sewing Workshop Soho Coat
Originally uploaded by happy10ann

I intended this to be a new coat. I love the Soho Coat pattern and when I saw this double sided fleece in two of my favorite colors I thought, ahah! a wonderful coat. However as it came into being it decided to be a robe, thus the slippers. It will be a lovely, cozy robe. I think the fabric is just too poufy to make an acceptable coat although I could wear it in an emergency.