Another Au Bonheur review

I made up another of the Au Bonheur patterns I ordered recently. This time a funky pair of pants. It is a fitted pant with an unusual banded bottom edge. The band is sewn on so that it forms folded peaks. A stretch fabric is required for as you can see it fits very closely. I raised the rise about 2 inches to hang from just below my waist and I eliminated the front zip. I also eliminated the waist facings to use elastic instead.

The pants are pretty simple to construct with the bottom band being the only thing different from many pants. Basically you sew all the long seams leaving the center front and center back seams open for the bottom 6 inches or so. Sew the crotch and side seams. Then you stitch the bottom bands to the bottom of each leg. The odd part is that the band will turn 6 corners going around each pant leg. You will need to stay stitch the edge and slash to each corner to make a smooth seam. They don't mention stay stitching or slashing at all. Since there are no markings for where you should reinforce and slash I found it easy to stitch the entire length of the band, pin it in place and then slash at the corners. Hope this make sense.

I think this pant only looks good with the cropped length. Sfshaza tried these and didn't like the look but she lengthened them to full length. I think that creates too much fabric puddling around your ankles. 

I used a light weight denim with lycra. The sizing requires a stretch fabric. It doesn't suggest a knit but I think you could use one that has some stability to it. I started to make the size larger after my experience with the coat sizing. I actually made a muslin which is a rarity for me. I usually just fit as I go after a tissue trial. After running up the muslin in size 42 I could see that was too big, cut it down to 40 and found that that worked. It may not be the perfect fit for me but close enough.

I'm enjoying these patterns. Even the translating is fun although it seems a bit like homework for my high school French class.

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains Coat

I've been eager to try the French pattern company Au Bonheur des Petites Mains after seeing some reviews here on PR especially those of Sfshaza. Here is her recent coat review that spurred me on to buy some of the patterns. I chose this coat which they title "Manteau a Decoupes" which translates literally to "cut coat". This would refer to the unfinished seams sewn to the outside I guess. The coat is fitted through the bodice and flares out at the skirt. There are multiple seams that are stitched wrong sides together leaving the raw edges to show and create an interesting effect. As the edges are unfinished it is important to use a fabric that doesn't ravel. I was very amused at the translation of the suggested fabric. They call for "polaire" which Google translates as artic. I'm guessing this means fleece.

This pattern comes in French sizes 36 to 44 in one envelope. I chose size 40 based on my waist and hip measurement planning to do a 3 inch FBA. When I did a muslin fitting I discovered that the pattern is very snug through the hips. Really there is no ease at all with the garment measuring the same as the given hip measurement for the size. But the shoulders were big on me. I did quite a bit of altering, both at the muslin stage and as I put the actual garment together. I was so focused on fitting in the upper body area that I didn't pay any attention to the length. It turns out the coat is very long and, though I shortened the torso and the sleeve length, it still seems long through the upper body to me. Of course I am 5'3" and it is probably designed for someone 5'7".


There are minimal instructions in French. I enjoyed the exercise of translating them with the help of Google Translate and glossary.  I used a fulled wool blend from Fabric Mart. I steamed the wool to further felt it. Lovely fabric to sew on. I'm happy to have another piece waiting in my stash.

I added at the bust and side seams, took away at the shoulders, back neck and armholes. Also I took away some that I had added at the side seams and shortened the sleeves and the overall length. I also omitted the zipper that is applied on the diagonal front. I didn't think I would ever really zip it up but I may add it if I feel the coat shifts around too much when I wear it.

Once you get passed the fitting issues, this is very easy to construct. If you add just 1/4" seam allowances you can save time from trimming all those seams down. There are no facings or hems and the collar is a single layer. I think it is a fun coat.