Dress for baby

I will try to do some catching up here. I've been gone on several trips (baby shower in LA, Puyallup Sewing Expo, visit to kids/grandkids in Jackson Hole) but I have been busy sewing since I got home. While I was on the trips all I managed to do was to knit this adorable little dress for the soon to arrive baby girl. It went together very quickly and was knit almost entirely while we drove to Jackson. The top part is faux cables so I didn't have to fiddle with extra needles which made that section pretty easy. I just had to remember my decreases for the shaping.

It is supposed to be sized for 3 - 6 months but it looks bigger than that to me. The nice thing about it is that it can be worn as a dress first and later as a tunic or top.

Jazz Cats diaper bag

My #2 son and his wife Rachel are expecting a baby in April.  I made another diaper bag from the Simplicity pattern I used 3 years ago to make the sock monkey bag for #1 son and his wife Suzanne. The previous bag was such a success that it was totally worn out. This time I decided to use a fabric that son #2, also a musician, might enjoy. There are jazzy cats playing congas and other instruments. I combined this with 2 other coordinated music fabrics. With the scraps I made 3 envelopes with velcro closures to help organize inside the bag and also a changing mat with a strap to hold it rolled up. I thought I had taken a bunch of photos to document this one a few weeks ago but they have disappeared. Maybe I imagined taking the photos. I did get just two at the shower this weekend. 

Vogue1097 Sandra Betzina Coat

Sandra Betzina's coat pattern described thusly: "Loose fitting, lined or unlined coat below hip or mid-calf has two-piece raglan sleeves with sleeve tabs with Velcro closure forming cuffs to hold sleeve fullness, two-piece hood with elastic casing, optional shoulder pads and belt, concealed separating zipper closure, side front pockets, upper and lower back seaming." Whew! Lots of detail. This coat took awhile but was fun creating.

After I started cutting this out I realized I should have used a simpler design, such as Sewing Workshop Soho Coat, because this fabric has enough going on all by itself. If I had only chosen that pattern I would have been done many hours earlier. Most of the details in this more complex design don't show up that much and broke up the fabric pattern unnecessarily. Also, I feared I wouldn't have quite enough yardage as my fabric was 3 inches narrower than the amount listed. Because of this I made no attempt to match the fabric designs. See the back. Then surprizingly I had more than a yard left over out of the 4 yards I started with. Darn, I could have done some matching. Same thing with the lining.... more than a yard left over. I don't know what went wrong with their yardage estimates this time.
Pattern Sizing: Today's Fit sizing. I used B above the bust and C below. This helps keep the neck and shoulder line in scale for me while adding the ease necessary at the hips and bust.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except my fabric is so different. Side back
Were the instructions easy to follow? Excellent instructions. Sandra adds lots of tips and detailed instructions beyond the normal Vogue instructions. The bagged lining is especially well described.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Love the ruched collar/hood (although it looks a little crazy when pulled Up), love the design of the pockets (in the seam), love the unusual cuffs (except...see dislikes), love the seam lines (that you can't see very well with this fabric). Dislikes: the cuffs are gathered up by the band and secured with velcro. The problem is that every time you have to wrap this around your arm and attach while fiddling with the gathers. Too fussy and even hard to get right. I soved this by tacking the band in 3 spots so I only have to pull the band snug the last few inches. You can't attach it entirely because it would be too narrow to put your hand through.

Also dislike: this may be my error. The front band pulls and curves out as it heads toward the bottom hem. I don't know why this happened. I was careful with the cutting and stitching and pressing.

Also don't really like how the front band is off center. Looks a bit odd to me.
Fabric Used: A taffeta (poly or acetate? don't know) with patchwork and embroidery. I intend this as a raincoat but I doubt it is practical. With all that patchwork and embroidery there are thousands of little stitch holes. Plus who knows what the fabric will do if soaked. I will spray with ScotchGuard but plan to carry an umbrella. Lined in copper crepe back satin.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:None.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think once is enough for me but I do recommend this. I think it is a very cool design. It would be best in a solid or simpler fabric so all the lines can be seen.
Conclusion: Although I said I probably wouldn't sew it again, now I'm thinking how cute this would be to make it in the shorter length.
p.s. I should have changed to my brown boots for the photo shoot.

Burda Magazine 9/2009 #115

Here's Burda's flowery description: "You don't have to rob a bank to afford this suave knee-length coat in posh wool fleece coating. You sew it yourself which is actually quite easy as the coat is unlined, has kimono sleeves and a scarf collar." Interesting that they describe it as quite easy but give in 3 1/2 stars on their difficulty rating. I picked this pattern for the interesting seam lines and unique scarf/collar.

This is drafted in sizes 72 through 88 which are the tall size range. I am not tall so I scaled it down as necessary. 

I need instructions primarily for order of construction. I have a hard time remembering that and don't want to think too hard about it so I find Burda's instuctions okay. The important steps are there. They do leave off things that I should be able to remember but the senior brain blanks out.... for instance there is no mention of stay stitching at the corners nor slashing them. How many 100s of times have I done this when told to by Vogue, et.al. But since it wasn't mentioned here I didn't think of it until I found myself struggling with those pointed intersections.

I used a wool melton double cloth from Fabric.com at an amazing low price. The pattern calls for coat fabrics with a soft surface and only fabrics that do not fray. Mine has the soft surface but does fray. I don't see any reason to use only fabrics that don't fray. I guess they suggest that because it is not lined but all you need to do is finish the seam edges inside. All exterior edges are faced or hemmed. I decided to line mine to make it more comfortable. I used a silk charmeuse from my stash.

Originally I cut the coat to be longer as in design 114 in the magazine. When it was together enough to try on I showed my DH who thought it was a bathrobe. That, plus the alarming green color, made me annoyed with the project and almost threw it out. My friend Barbara encouraged me to continue so I cut off the extra length, added the lining and pressed the edges vigorously. Much better. I used a large  snap at the neck to close. The design calls for 5 snaps but I didn't think that was necessary. I think I may add one more just below the seam across the front. Both snaps will be hidden by the scarf when worn. Oh yes, I also reduced the width of the collar by 1 1/4". You need to be that tall person the pattern is sized for to wear that tall collar.

 I might make it again if I found the appropriate boiled wool. In that case I would not face all the edges or make the scarf doubled to keep it lean and mean.

The color is much more intense than the color looked to be when I ordered it. Maybe I'm just sick of looking at it and once it hides in my closet for a while my eyes will have recovered.

I have recovered: I wore the coat last night to a concert and it felt good. Someone even complimented me on how good I look in green. So it will be worn and loved.

Jalie 2787 Criss Cross Top

This is my first Jalie and I'm quite pleased with it. I chose the Criss-cross top which has bands that cross and are stitched into the side seams. This creates a secure, non-gaping front. The lower part of the front is a separate panel that lies underneath the criss cross bands but is not attached to them. In a stretchy fabric this top can be used for maternity and even as a nursing garment. Not that I need that!!

Jalie has every size from young girl to plus size 22 in one envelope. I used size U which is 3 sizes less than my bust measurement but close to my waist and hips. I did a flat pattern measurement and the pattern seemed similar to some of my tops of like material. I chose that size so the shoulders and neckline would fit correctly.

I used an onionskin from EOS 5 years ago depicting the Sistine Chapel. The Jalie instructions are brief but accurate and adequate. The diagrams are especially good.

I decided to leave all edges unfinished. I like the look in this kind of fabric. Also I think it helped keep the top from being too tight. I feared the bust would be overly snug after I cut it out and held it up across my body. But by not stitching or stabilizing the pieces in any way it keeps the maximum stretchiness. I shortened the length by 2 inches for a more flattering length on me.

I plan to make more of this pattern and other Jalies waiting in my stash. I definitely recommend this one.
By eliminating finishing the edges and hems, this only took about 20 minutes to sew. The pants are Sewing Workshop Plaza pant in brown wool jersey.


I say it took 20 minutes to sew which would be correct except when I put it on I noticed the sleeve had a curved and slanted bottom. I thought "hmm, I hadn't noticed that look on the envelope picture." Then I noticed that the other sleeve was straight across. Finally it dawned on me that I had sewn the sleeve in upside down. Yes the hem edge was sewn to the shoulder. The amazing thing is that the edges are exactly the same length so I didn't notice this goof while I stitched. So be aware the curved edge and flared hem edge are equal. It actually felt alright on due to the stretchiness of the fabric but, though my DH couldn't see it, I didn't like the images being upside down. Out with the ripper!

Burda 7594

 I made this again using a neat textured knit from Stone Mt. & Daughter in Berkeley. The stripes are raised and puckery. I changed the cutting layout to vary the direction of the stripes, much like I did in my first version. I thought it would fit the same as the previous one but when I got it together and tried it on it looked awful. It was quite loose through the torso and really added bulk. Not a good look. Many inches were taken in at the side seams, maybe 4 - 5 altogether. I can wear it without the tee underneath once the weather warms up as I sewed the side seams up higher under the arms than the pattern indicates.

Simplicity 4076 top & Vogue 8561 skirt

I haven't been posting but I have been sewing. I got way behind on my reviewing somehow. 
First up the Marcy Tilton skirt Vogue 8561 that I made last year. It was so problematic because of errors in the pattern plus a fussy fabric. I've had my eye out for a nice pin stripe to use to simulate the details of the skirt in the pattern photo. A few weeks ago I visited my DIL in the Bay Area and had time for a quick stop at Stone Mountain and Daughter. Love that store. I found 4 pieces that had to come home with me. One is this lovely light weight wool charcoal/creme stripe. It worked up nicely.

The skirt is a bit time consuming because of the top-stitching especially if you need to keep changing the thread color each time as I did. Hemming is a pain because of the different grains at the hemline making it hard to get it even. One has to call on DH to help in a case like this. 


With it is that great top that has been such a popular pattern. I wanted a red top to go with my latest skirt and I love the shape of this top. View A is very similar to Simplicity 4095 that I have used many times for both the top and the skirt. This one, 4076, has flared sleeves which I didn't want so I used the sleeve from 4095. The other difference is that 4095 has gathering at the forward shoulders and slightly more curved in waistline. The red rayon jersey was waiting in my stash.

This is my best neckline. It is low but not too low and doesn't gap. Although I changed the sleeve to the narrower one I forgot to take it in even more at the lower arm. I really prefer it to be snug so I can push it up. Too lazy to take out the topstitching to change it now.

The size I cut, though right for my bust and hips is too big for my shoulders. I took in the sleeve seam 1/2 inch and eased out more than an inch at the back neck.

Everybody loves this one. There are 163 reviews on PR! I definitely will be making it again.

Summing Up

I notice other bloggers having been reviewing and totally their production for the year. That struck me as a fun thing so I have done it too. I had thought before reviewing that I hadn't really made very much this year since I have been away from home so much. It amazed me to find I had made 59 things. A few are not much.... scarf, baby blanket.. but most are the usual project ranging from simple knit tops to jackets. I didn't do any really time consuming projects this year except for a quilt to hang in my grandson's room. No major lined jackets, fitted dresses, etc. I see a shortage of dresses and pants which I'm feeling in my wardrobe. Here's my breakdown:

Knit tops                   16

Woven tops                 8

Knit skirts                   4

Woven skirts                3

Knit pants                   1

Woven pants                2

Lounging gowns           2

Jackets, Coat, Cape     11

Knit dresses                 2

Costumes                     3

Baby                            3

Men's shirt                   1

Quilt                            1

Scarf                            1


Addendum: Silly me. I forgot the 3 most recent items as they haven't been photographed yet. I guess they are not real until they have a picture taken. 1 woven dress, 2 knit tops.

Simplicity 4434 Baby clothes

I wanted to make a gift for my expectant DIL using a fun fabric. I had made a great blanket for my other DIL using a flannel monkey print and minkie. They are still using that blanket after almost 3 years. I found this wonderful animal print at Fabric.com in Minkie and looked for a flannel to harmonize. I even ordered one with this one but the colors were horrible together. I had also ordered the polka dot Minkie in the same colorway to use for another project. So when these arrived and I had to discard my original plan with the flannel I looked to the dotted fabric to be the reverse. The fabric was thinner than I had expected but that worked to my advantage in this case because using the two together was not too heavy. By careful cutting I was able to make the blanket and have enought left to make this cute little cape. Miraculously I also found a could squeeze out the matching pants. These baby clothes don't take much yardage!

Pattern Sizing: I cut size 6 months. I don't know about how it will fit as the baby (known to be a girl this time) is not yet born.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy. Nice instructions for making the tassels and pompons, something I hadn't done before.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Cute style, maybe not the most useful for a baby but easy to put on.

Fabric Used: Animal print and dotted Minkie fleece.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No changes to the cape and pants. The blanket was my own invention. I was going to make the shaped bunting on the pattern but the bias binding I had looked terrible with my fabric. So I changed plans mid stream and cut one square for the blanket smaller than the other, laid the smaller inside the other, mitered the corners and brought the edges over to look like binding.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. Now that I see how easy it is to make baby pull on pants I will certainly not hesitate to make more. Really only about 20 minutes.

Conclusion: Cute little set. I'm eager for the my new GD to arrive to see it on her. Really, I'm just eager to have a granddaughter. I have 2 boys, my sister has 2 boys, my brother has 3 boys and 1 girl, my son has 2 boys. You see there is an extreme shortage of girls for me to dress.

Kwik Sew 2935 Aloha Shirt

Wow! It has been a long time since I blogged. As usual life has been hectic. A trip to St. Augustine and Savannah from Thanksgiving to the first weekend in December threw me off my usual Christmas prep. We had never been to that area and loved it of course. Lots of wonderful history, architecture, and even Christmas events to attend.

Once home I plunged into the frantic Christmas activity deciding wisely to not decorate as much as usual since, not only was time short, we aren't going to be home from the 22nd to the 28th. Just as I thought I was getting it under control my son called with a plea for a Christmas themed Hawaiian shirt. He needed this for a gig coming up soon where he is playing next to Santa at a shopping mall. The hiring agent really wanted him to wear a whimsical themed shirt. He always performs in Hawaiian or Caribbean style shirts as he plays the steel drum so he has a vast collection of such shirts. He has several that I thought would be good for such an event with red flowers and green background. But no, not good enough. So I ran off to Joann's where, although the Christmas fabric was picked over, thankfully it was 60% off. I managed to find one that didn't look too tacky and raced home with it.

Of course it took me longer than I expected but it was fun making this. The most amusing part was watching my son, via web cam, try to measure one of his shirts with a 12 inch ruler. Eventually he got the required measurements for me to proceed. I mailed the shirt to him and he got it in time for his gig tomorrow. He reported via email that I am the Christmas shirt genius. He said it fits perfectly and the agent will love it. I am a happy mom.

Sewing Workshop Bells and Whistles Shirts

I made this back in late August or September but since then my life has been crazy so I forgot to review it. There are two cool shirts in the pattern. The Bells shirt which is the one I made is described as a semi-fitted shirt with a collar and collar band, curved front band closure, left shoulder coverlay and back darts. Below elbow, set in sleeves with a split band and cuff. Floating front band provides buttoning options. Curved shirttail hem. The Whistles shirt is loose fitting in two lengths with front and back placket wedges collar long sleeves and partially concealed button closures.

Pattern Sizing: The sizes range from XS (6) to XXL (22). I made the Small with no alterations although my measurements are on the high side of the Medium. So my garment is probably closer fitting than intended. I usually make the smaller size for a good fit through the shoulders and the larger size at the sides. But I could see that there was enough ease for a comfortable fit.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.
Back
Close up

Were the instructions easy to follow? The usual excellent Sewing Workshop instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I don't wear shirts often but when I do I like it to be unusual. This filled that requirement.

Fabric Used: A shibori looking fabric from FabriX in San Francisco. I'm guessing it is pseudo shibori and, although it feels like cotton, perhaps it is not because all the crinkles and shibori looking knot texture stays in after washing. Here's the really freaky thing.... I discovered when looking at other reviews here on PR that reviewer sfshaza made this same shirt using the exact same fabric at about the same time I did! She must shop at FabriX also. But to pick the same pattern for this fabric stunned me. Here's her review.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I tried switching around the grainline so the stripes would go different ways but it doesn't show up very much.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely recommend this shirt. I'm looking forward to making the Whistles version.

Conclusion: I love it.

Burda 7594 "Missoni" tunic

A quick and easy tunic which is fun for stripes. The bodice front will have the stripes run diagonally, the back vertical and the lower part around if you use the selvedge as the hem. Burda shows it using contrasting fabrics for the top and bottom sections although it is hard to see in the illustration.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 36 through 50 in one envelope. I used size 44 which corresponds most closely to my measurements but took out at least 4 inches from the bottom section and overlapped the bodice top and extra 2 inches. So I guess you would say it runs large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Here is the back, without the scarf, and the scarf as a sash.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Excellent instructions with some extras that you don't usually see. They include specifics for using sweater knits such as chain stitch to help stabilize the neckline and hand stitching or double needle stitching for hem finishes. I did the hand stitching on sleeves and neckline. This took a little more time but it still sews up quickly even with the hand stitching.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Like the simplicity to show off a showy fabric and the ease of construction. Also I liked that it was very easy to alter.

Fabric Used: A Missoni-like open weave sweater knit made of Viscose and poly from EmmaOneSock. It has a double scalloped selvedge which I used for the lower hem on the top and the edge of the scarf. The tunic uses very little fabric but to have the stripes match and the scalloped edge you need two yards. This leaves about 15 inches of unused fabric along the other selvedge. Logically one must make a scarf from this long piece. I cut along the zigzags on the none selvedge edge to have the scallops on both sides of the scarf.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Reduced size as mentioned above and cut the bottom section sideways to use the scalloped edge as a hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I definitely recommend this one and may do it again.

Conclusion: A trendy and easy to wear look. My fabric is a bit springlike so I may have to make another quickly in a more wintery fabric to wear now.

Hot Patterns 3 Graces Cross front top

I made the cross front version of this popular new Hot Patterns top. It is described as having a slightly cowled neckline and a cross-over wrapped front. I choose the extra-long sleeve that is designed to be scrunched.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 thorugh 26 included in one envelope. I made a 10 as that cooresponded most closely with my hip and underbust measurements. My full bust is closer to size 14 but this design is quite generous through the bust so no FBA was needed.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mine seems to be looser especially through the center front tummy area.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Uh.... no. The on-line video helps a lot but I don't think a pattern should be dependent on that source. Even with the video this top is confusing to get the criss cross right. I'm not sure that I don't have an extra twist in there.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the drapey style. Don't like the excess of fabric in front

Fabric Used: Rayon jersey.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:None.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably won't make this style again but I plan to try the looped front version. If you like something a little different try it.

Conclusion: I like this okay although it seems a lot of fabric on my front. The back fits well. The rayon jersey is super comfortable to wear. Here is a view of the top in in action.

The Devil Family

Life has been crazy for the last couple of months.... the trip to Israel/Jordan (fantastic), trips to Oregon to care for DFIL and finally for a memorial service (he was 91), a trip to Jackson Hole to see the kids/grandkids and last but not least, a trip to the ER for me after a nasty fall off a ladder. This caused a concussion, torn back muscles, and a bizarre cut at my mouth from the pruning shears. Stitches were required inside and out as the edge of my mouth was sliced open. Eek. This happened on DH's birthday. What a way to celebrate....7 hours in the emergency room.

Now after a month I am almost healed and finally back in the sewing room. The only thing I have sewn in 2 months because of all the craziness is halloween costumes. Here they are.... the devil family.