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If you are contemplating sewing up this pretty dress let me warn you. It is an epic project. It looks innocent enough in the photo but this dress could be worn into battle it is so thoroughly constructed. I guess if you are going to sell for $2000 or so as the Pamella Roland original did, you need to having something to show for it. Here are some statistics: 24 different pattern pieces to cut from the fashion fabric, 14 pieces to cut from interfacing, 9 pieces of lining. The bottom hem is 10 yards around (yes!! 30 feet around the flounces) and altering for bust, waist, hips involves many pieces including the flounces. It is very complex to alter. The dress is quite weighty what with all that interfacing, lining and 4 yards of 58 wide fabric. I mean, there are only a few little scraps left. Because my fabric wasn't quite the 60 inches wide that is called for, I needed to shorten the 3 flounce pieces an inch. I would have done that any way for my height.
That said it is a very nicely drafted pattern with good instructions for the most part. Some parts of the lining construction are pretty confusing but clear enough if you ponder the drawings long enough. Mostly it is just very time consuming. Lots of stay stitching and easing curved seams.
It looks like a wrap dress but really it is sewn shut at the front and access is through a side zipper. I'm pleased that the front stays closed even though it is only sewn together at the waist.
The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly lining.
One thing I did that helped me a lot was to label every piece with a bit of blue painter's tape stuck to the right side with the pattern number and name (RF, lower RF, etc.). With so many pieces and the right and wrong side exactly the same it would be super easy to get a piece in the wrong place.
The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly lining. I plan to make the matching covered belt but I'm waiting on a vintage belt kit. Might as well go for the whole deal.
I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.
Envelope description: Close fitting, lower calf at center back length, lined dress has front darts, front and back princess seams, lapped fronts, shaped lower edge, gathered flounce, armhole overlay, collar with collar band, left side invisible zipper, self-fabric flower with large and small petals and pin back, self-fabric belt and thread belt carriers.
I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.
I made up another of the Au Bonheur patterns I ordered recently. This time a funky pair of pants. It is a fitted pant with an unusual banded bottom edge. The band is sewn on so that it forms folded peaks. A stretch fabric is required for as you can see it fits very closely. I raised the rise about 2 inches to hang from just below my waist and I eliminated the front zip. I also eliminated the waist facings to use elastic instead.
The pants are pretty simple to construct with the bottom band being the only thing different from many pants. Basically you sew all the long seams leaving the center front and center back seams open for the bottom 6 inches or so. Sew the crotch and side seams. Then you stitch the bottom bands to the bottom of each leg. The odd part is that the band will turn 6 corners going around each pant leg. You will need to stay stitch the edge and slash to each corner to make a smooth seam. They don't mention stay stitching or slashing at all. Since there are no markings for where you should reinforce and slash I found it easy to stitch the entire length of the band, pin it in place and then slash at the corners. Hope this make sense.
I think this pant only looks good with the cropped length. Sfshaza tried these and didn't like the look but she lengthened them to full length. I think that creates too much fabric puddling around your ankles.
I used a light weight denim with lycra. The sizing requires a stretch fabric. It doesn't suggest a knit but I think you could use one that has some stability to it. I started to make the size larger after my experience with the coat sizing. I actually made a muslin which is a rarity for me. I usually just fit as I go after a tissue trial. After running up the muslin in size 42 I could see that was too big, cut it down to 40 and found that that worked. It may not be the perfect fit for me but close enough.
I'm enjoying these patterns. Even the translating is fun although it seems a bit like homework for my high school French class.
