Vogue calls this pattern EASY. Ha ha, I say. This is a tricky design. Perhaps view A and B are easy but view C, that I did, is NOT EASY. The back twist is inadequately described and at least one of the illustrations seems to be wrong. It didn't help that there is only one teeny, tiny drawing of the back. When my DIL saw this fabric that I was considering for a top she suggested I should make something really edgy since the fabric is sort of out there. So, after searching my pattern stash, this is the one I chose.
I cut a 14 at the sides and 12 at the neck and shoulders. I compared the flat pattern with another close fitting top I have made to check the sizing and decided to go with no alterations. The 14 is 2 inches less than my bust measurement. If I make it again I will cut size 10 at the shoulders and neck, which I usually do, because that should pull up the back more snugly. I took a major deep seam in the center back of the twist to make it all pull together.
Except for where they are almost inexplicable. I was sewing this at the recent sewing retreat with my friend Barbara, a very experienced seamstress, sewing beside me. It took both of us some time studying the instructions and drawings to figure out the front tucks and steps 31 through 40 regarding the back construction. I think step step 40 is just wrong.
I used a cotton jersey with only crosswise stretch. The pattern calls for 2 way stretch. This is important to be aware of because, if you follow the cutting layout, the pieces are laid sideways to the selvedge. This will be okay if you have 2 way stretch. If you don't and follow the layout you won't have any stretch around your body.
My fabric drove me crazy with its desire to roll to the right side. I kept trying to press it into submission but it would not cooperate. Finally, I gave up on that and decided to go for the deconstructed look, leaving the hem unfinished so it would roll like the other areas. I figure the back side color occurred on the right side of the fabric here and there so it looked deliberate.
I hope to sew this again in a more cooperative fabric that is the same on both sides. Now that I understand how to make this it should go more easily.
2 comments:
Good choice to go with the deconstructed look since the fabric was unwilling to cooporate. It's gorgeous!
I wonder who rates the patterns. Recently, I've sewn a few garments using Vogue patterns and the ratings have been wrong.
I really like the results of the fabric and style of this top. This was one that I considered making this summer. But I probably won't make it up until next year.
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