I've been working on this jacket off and on for a month now, interrupted by trips and other sewing projects. It has been very annoying to work on for a variety of reasons. The pattern specifically calls for synthetic suede. It is the only fabric suggested for the jacket. I have a very nice quality, light weight ultra-suede that I am using. I've sewn with ultra-suede before and not had any problems. This however, has been a nightmare. Perhaps using another fabric like wool crepe the sleeves would work but they are drafted really poorly for ultra-suede. After several attempts to set in the sleeves, using mohair as per Sandra Betzina's technique, I cut off the top of the sleeve to make a flatter curve. It still isn't perfect but I will live with it.
None of the seams would press flat so I went back (after I thought I was almost done) and applied fusible strips under every seam to hold them down. It looks better now but not as good as I would like.
The pattern doesn't call for any interfacing which is bizarre. The collar really needs it. So after constructing the collar I went back in with a sturdy interfacing and it is better. I will also add interfacing for under the buttons. What were the pattern drafters thinking?
And now that it is almost complete I have found another problem. The back juts out unattractively (see photos). I guess it is supposed to have a slight peplum affect but this looks bad on me. I guess I will go back in, pull apart the fused seams (egad!!) and take in the seams at the lower back to pull it in closer to the body. The sleeves are unfinished in the pictures. I left the placket and hem of the sleeves to after setting the sleeves in which turned out to be a good thing. By removing the top of the sleeve head the sleeves are now almost too short. I only have 1/2 inch to hem instead of the 2 inches that I should have.
Meanwhile I am going to set it aside for a few quick sews to get my spirit back..
4 comments:
That is a real shame. The pattern is gorgeous (in theory) and your fabric is really nice.
Oh, I read this post with great interest as I have this pattern set aside with the recommended synthetic suede just about ready to go. Please post a photo when you're done!
I was hoping to make this pattern out of something other than suede or ultrasuede. Do you think it would work better in wool?
Just read your post. I'm making this jacket too as I love the pattern details. But only started out with a "normal" fabric as a sort of muslin. Looking forward to see your end-result, because if I get it worked out, I'd like to make it in suede.
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