Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Kwik Sew 3489 Wrap around dress

I just finished making Kwik Sew 3489, the DVF knockoff in a black/white rayon jersey. I really like it. These rayon jerseys are so comfortable to wear.
I cut out the dress in medium except small at the neckline and armscye. I added extra at the side seam and dropped the dart but did not do a FBA. Right away I could see that the dart was too low so I put it back almost to its original position. I think with a 4 way stretch fabric this occurs because the weight of the fabric pulls down. I needed to cut away the medium length at the waist back to the small length. I took in the sides so that it is somewhere between medium and small. I top-stitched the neck facing to try to keep it in place better. It still wants to flop out some and also the top-stitching pushed the fabric somewhat. So, to prevent that, on the skirt and sleeve hems I used Steam-a-seam to fuse the hem in place before stitching. That worked great.

Saturday, May 5, 2007

Burda WOF 2/2007 #114 Empire waist top

Browse in Update: previous style next style
114 A Tunic
115 A Trousers/pants
6 / 8
from Burda World of Fashion 02/2007

Modell Photo

bumo.fashionEinzelschnittStdBody.technischeZeichnung.alt technical drawing

A veritable masterpiece! A drawstring with decorative bow accentuates the trendy empire waistline. The trousers/pants are quickly sewn, as they’re straight-cut and feature only pressed creases and turn-ups/cuffs.

Burda sizes 34 – 44.
(Tunic & trousers/pants: ** Easy to sew but more time-consuming)

I was enamored with this top when the magazine first arrived. It reminded me that I have a similar fabric in black in my stash. It had not occurred to me that I could cut away the edges for such an interesting look. So instead of finishing my clothes sorting project, or working on the other sewing projects I had decided to do, I plunged into this one. On studying the pattern I realized that it does not open down the front as I had thought but is an overblouse. I'm not sure I want this for the black fabric. Also it is a trendy look that may not work well on me nor last for a while. However now that I have the pattern out on the table I decided to proceed and use another fabric for a wearable muslin. It is a cotton windowpane voile from EOS. I only have 1 1/4 yard but maybe I can make it work.

I dropped the underbust seam 1 1/2 inches and cut size 40 with no other alterations. I had to shorten the sleeves 2 inches because of lack of fabric but I often shorten sleeves anyway. Also due to lack of fabric I had to piece the casing band. The instructions seem to be pretty complete and understandable, not usual for WOF, except for the dimensions given for the casing band. I assumed the size included the seam allowances so my piece is narrower than it should be. There is a lot of design ease at the bust and hips. The neckline is very low requiring a camisole underneath. The shoulders and set in sleeves fit well.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

PR: Hot Patterns Butterfly Top/Cape

Posted on:5/2/07 3:18 PM
Pattern Size:Regular
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo: HotPatterns Pattern Information

Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith

Pattern Rating:Easy to sew

Pattern Description: Here is the Butterfly Top with the cape collar from the Hot Patterns new collection of No Sweat Easy Sew garments. Like the other top I reviewed this is designed for drapey T-shirting or silky jersey. This tie-neck top has a cape layer over a gently shaped bodice with cap sleeves and a toe at the deep V-neck. I don't know what that means "a toe at the deep V-neck"? Do you? The front drape is stitched into the band at the bottom. Maybe that is the "toe". Like the cowl top, this has a hip band and pulls on over the head. Here's the back.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 through 26 in one envelope. I cut the 8 at the top and 10 at the sides. However when I tried it on I decided to down to the 8 at the sides as well. It runs very large.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Instructions are good except they forgot to mention finishing the back neck. I turned the raw edge under and top-stitched.

This top is a wee bit trickier than the cowl neck top due to the neckline/cape construction. If you follow the instructions to the letter it works out correctly but it could be a little puzzling.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the unusual, retro character of the cape collar and tie-neck. I feel it is very flattering and graceful. It drapes very well in my fabric. I love the neckline which is not too low on me and the tie at the neck. However the one thing I'm not happy about is the fact that my fabric doesn't look good on the reverse and it tends to show. Since the cape is a single layer it flips out easily. Also, although I understitched at the neckline it wants to roll out and show the underside of the fabric. There really isn't any place to tack it to prevent this. Perhaps I should topstitch it. This complaint is just about my fabric, not the pattern.

Fabric Used: Rayon jersey animal print, well aged in my stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I changed the edge finish from a turned under, top-stitched hem to a 3 thread overcast. Very easy and quick on that long cape edge.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I like this alot and would sew it again someday. It is very distinctive so maybe not for a while. Definitely recommend it to you.

Conclusion As others have mentioned the sizing is large on this top. Also I didn't have any trouble with the band stretching out at the bottom. The top eased into it nicely and it fits well (with the smaller size).

Hot Patterns No Sweat Easy Sew Butterfly Top/Cowl

I made the cowl neck Butterfly top from a pink paisley onionskin in my stash. This was purchased from EmmaOneSock of course. The top goes together very easily. I cut an 8 at the top and 10 on the sides as several reviewers on PR mentioned that it ran large. I'm not really crazy about how it looks on me.... too much fabric on the front and perhaps the color/print looks a little matronly. I tried to jazz it up by wearing trendy crop pants and funky shoes.
click for larger image

What I'm doing today

Today I will write up reviews for the two Hot Patterns Butterfly tops I just made. Also I need to decide on what's up next. I'm thinking the Sewing Workshop Zona Jacket out of the white crinkle fabric from Fabrix if there is enough of it. Or perhaps a wrap dress with one of the rayon jersey prints I bought recently. But first I must complete the switching out of the winter clothes to the summer clothes project started yesterday.

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Vogue 8353 Divine Details gingham dress

Posted on:5/1/07 12:41 PM

Last Updated:5/1/07 12:48 PM

Pattern Size:Regular

Project Photo:photo

Pattern Photo:

Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith

Pattern Rating:Easy to sew

Pattern Description: Vogue describes this as a slightly flared dress with front and back 1" tucks, wing collar, extended armholes and purchased trim. Length is below mid-knee.

Pattern Sizing: Size A is 6-8-10 and Size B is12-14-16. I used size A. More about sizing under alterations below.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much since I used the same fabric except in brown/white. i did not add the lace trim. It is applied at the end with the fabric cut away from behind it. If ever I found appropriate lace I might do that.

Were the instructions easy to follow? This an easy garment even though it looks more complex. Only 3 pattern pieces: front, back, and front facing. Marking and sewing the tucks is the only part that takes any time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Playing with the checks, the retro style, the collar. I disliked the inaccuracy about the finished garment measurements (more below...)

Fabric Used: Brown/white cotton/poly gingham. I looked hard for something different, preferably stripes or at least checks with less contrast. Also I wanted all natural fiber. I consider this a wearable muslin as I don't really like the cotton/poly. To play with the checks you need an even check or stripe. An inch works with the way the pattern is marked but you could use another size adding more tucks to create the proper sizing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As I considered this a muslin I plunged in without a lot of caution. In other words I believed the measurement given on the pattern tissue as to finished bust/waist/hip measurements. The bust for size 10 is 46". Plenty of ease there so no FBA needed. Hips are 62". Again, fine, no problem. Waist is given as 31". Ok I thought. I will just cut out the 10. First issue....I haven't measured my waist for a while and thought it was 28" Ha. Turns out it is now 30". You are supposed to only need one inch ease at the waist but this, this was way too tight. I measured the flat pattern to find that they were off a bit. The waist is only 30 inches with the tucks as marked. To allow more space for my midsection I released the outer tucks, front and back. That added 4 inches. However, since the tucks are sewn to hide the white check it is necessary to fudge a bit on each tuck, taking in a hair more than the inch allowed. You need to do this or the white check shows. So if you take in a hair extra on 25 tucks you end up with about another 2 inch shortage around. So it is almost big enough now. You can see the affect of releasing the outer tuck at the side seams (more white) and sleeve (wider off the shoulder). I could let out the side seams another quarter inch which should take care of the snugness (notice pulling at the buttons) or I could loose a few pounds. Let's see, which would be easier?

The other alteration I did was to shorten the length of the tucks on the front by one inch at the top to accommodate my lower bust line.

One detail I like is how the collar checks automatically line up with the back stripes. Another view of the back.

The dress is shorter than I like and seems shorter than pictured on the photo and I am only 5'3". I took a minimal half inch hem instead of the suggested 1 1/2 inch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would love this in a light weight linen, maybe a solid color. If I ever find an appropriate stripe I will try it again.

Conclusion Cute, easy dress.