Burda 8168

I searched through my pattern stash to find just the right design for this wonderful two sided wool. The color combination is so delicious that I wanted both sides to show. This Burda pattern has been waiting there in my file cabinet waiting for just this moment.

The jacket has multiple seams and if constructed as described in the pattern, the seams and edges are highlighted with hand blanket stitching. I didn't do this. It calls for felt, fulled fabrics or tweed. You need a fabric that looks good on both sides as the wrong side shows at the collar. It is described as loosed fitting.

Because it is described as loose fitting I cut out the tissue in a size 40 instead of the larger size my bust/hip measurements need. I pin fit the tissue and decided it really wasn't that loose fitting in those areas so I added the necessary FBA. That worked out fine. I also stitched the underarm curve up higher under my arm to reduce extra fullness.

I found the perfect button at the recent quilt show. There were vendors there including one button booth. Happy day.

I like the interesting diagonals and the soft collar so I sewed all but the side/underarm seams wrong sides together to emphasize the lines. Then I pressed them open and topstitched them in place. I serged the outer edges using rayon embroidery thread. I rolled up the cuff to show the reversed side and I sewed the collar on with the opposite side out also to show off the other color. My fabric is not felted so it ravels some even with the top-stitching. I think of it as slightly de-constructed, a trend I am enjoying.

This is quick to sew. If you do the decorative hand stitching it will take longer of course. I definitely recommend it. I would love to make it again.