Thursday, February 11, 2010

Vogue1097 Sandra Betzina Coat

Sandra Betzina's coat pattern described thusly: "Loose fitting, lined or unlined coat below hip or mid-calf has two-piece raglan sleeves with sleeve tabs with Velcro closure forming cuffs to hold sleeve fullness, two-piece hood with elastic casing, optional shoulder pads and belt, concealed separating zipper closure, side front pockets, upper and lower back seaming." Whew! Lots of detail. This coat took awhile but was fun creating.

After I started cutting this out I realized I should have used a simpler design, such as Sewing Workshop Soho Coat, because this fabric has enough going on all by itself. If I had only chosen that pattern I would have been done many hours earlier. Most of the details in this more complex design don't show up that much and broke up the fabric pattern unnecessarily. Also, I feared I wouldn't have quite enough yardage as my fabric was 3 inches narrower than the amount listed. Because of this I made no attempt to match the fabric designs. See the 
back. Then surprizingly I had more than a yard left over out of the 4 yards I started with. Darn, I could have done some matching. Same thing with the lining.... more than a yard left over. I don't know what went wrong with their yardage estimates this time.
Pattern Sizing: Today's Fit sizing. I used B above the bust and C below. This helps keep the neck and shoulder line in scale for me while adding the ease necessary at the hips and bust.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except my fabric is so different. Side back
Were the instructions easy to follow? Excellent instructions. Sandra adds lots of tips and detailed instructions beyond the normal Vogue instructions. The bagged lining is especially well described.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Love the ruched collar/hood (although it looks a little crazy when pulled Up), love the design of the pockets (in the seam), love the unusual cuffs (except...see dislikes), love the seam lines (that you can't see very well with this fabric). Dislikes: the cuffs are gathered up by the band and secured with velcro. The problem is that every time you have to wrap this around your arm and attach while fiddling with the gathers. Too fussy and even hard to get right. I soved this by tacking the band in 3 spots so I only have to pull the band snug the last few inches. You can't attach it entirely because it would be too narrow to put your hand through.

Also dislike: this may be my error. The front band pulls and curves out as it heads toward the bottom hem. I don't know why this happened. I was careful with the cutting and stitching and pressing.

Also don't really like how the front band is off center. Looks a bit odd to me.
Fabric Used: A taffeta (poly or acetate? don't know) with patchwork and embroidery. I intend this as a raincoat but I doubt it is practical. With all that patchwork and embroidery there are thousands of little stitch holes. Plus who knows what the fabric will do if soaked. I will spray with ScotchGuard but plan to carry an umbrella. Lined in copper crepe back satin.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:None.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think once is enough for me but I do recommend this. I think it is a very cool design. It would be best in a solid or simpler fabric so all the lines can be seen.
Conclusion: Although I said I probably wouldn't sew it again, now I'm thinking how cute this would be to make it in the shorter length.
p.s. I should have changed to my brown boots for the photo shoot.


Gail said...

What an interesting garment. Based on weather reports from the USA it may be just what you need.

Claudine said...

Beautiful coat! It's a great use of the embellished fabric.

Little Hunting Creek said...

What a beautiful coat! That fabric is gorgeous and I love the details.

Digs said...

Very, very nice! Interesting, looks very comfortable and warm. I love the pocket placement, the cuffed sleeves, and the shirred hood.

Soph said...

Truly a designer piece!
Beautiful work!!!

gwensews said...

I think your coat is glorious! It's a fun coat! And I love the chartreuse coat in your last post. LOVE it!

KARIMA said...

I love your coat! I"m making the same coat in snake skin print molesskin. I'm loving my coat except for the hood. I think the hood looks like a maid cap in a victorian palor. It looks great down but don't try to wear it. Next time I make this coat (and there will be a next time),I'll use another hood pattern.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Your coat is gorgeous. The fabric is so unique and it really makes your jacket stand out. Well done.