Tahoe Sewing Retreat

Home from the sewing frenzy and exhausted. But happy. Barbara and I were sewing demons once again this year at the 5 day retreat our sewing club holds at Lake Tahoe. Such a beautiful setting with fantastic weather and we huddled over our machines the entire time, from 7:30 am to 12:30 at night. 20 minutes for each meal, a little bit of conversation with others but absolutely possessed by the sewing mojo. Between us we created 25 garments. This year we were quite organized ahead of time by planning our projects and cutting them out before going. We found it often congested at the cutting table and hard to concentrate on the important cutting/altering step in the retreat environment. So having our projects prepared before hand really helped.

I found myself really stupid at times and needed Barbara's help figuring out pattern instructions occasionally. What's with that? I think I'm losing it. One project in particular, an Issey Miyake top and skirt that I have made before, was impossible for me to do without her help. Another time she had to help me rip out about 1/2 inch of stitches, black on black, that I couldn't see at all. I spent 45 minutes with no progress and was ready to quit. She worked at it for another 45 minutes while I held a magnifying glass over it and finally got those blasted few stitches out. Thank heavens she was there.

We're already looking forward to next year. I will gradually post about each project. I'm really happy with all of them which is quite surprising to me as about half I considered experiments or possible disasters for a variety of reasons.

Vogue 1113 Mizono Jacket

For years I've seen Mizono garments in a few boutiques I've windowed shopped in and now here one has appeared at Vogue. I'm thrilled. This is an unlined jacket, loose fitting with asymmetrical hemline, Kimono sleeves with uneven hemline, lapped fronts and neckline slits. There are also pull on pants included in the pattern but I only made the jacket so far.

I cut size 8 (although my measurements call for 16+) and I took in the underarm seam another 1/2 inch. So, it has a lot of ease. Compared to the pattern illustraton mine looks longer on me as I am 5'3" and didn't shorten it at all. You can see that it is quite short in the back.

I loved the unique shaping, easy construction, the neckline, the interesting sleeves, everything.
I used a wool tweed-like fabric that actually has little white colored squares on the surface of the black. A wonderful unique textile I bought recently from the Textile Studios final sale. Boo hoo, sad to see that resource go.

I made no alterations, not even the sleeve length. I worried about the sleeve length as I usually need to shorten sleeves about 2 inches. There is no place indicated to shorten the sleeves although you could do it half way up the sleeve and true the seam. But, after a quick tissue fitting, I decided that the shorter part of the sleeve would hit on the top of my arm and would be short enough. I did move the location of the button slightly to hit me at a more flattering spot.

I probably don't need another soon but I do highly recommend to those of you who, like me, enjoy the unusual. I may make it again someday in a summer weight, linen perhaps.

As you can see I'm very pleased with this new garment.

Which projects?

I need to get ready for the wonderful Tahoe retreat coming up a week from this Sunday. It is 5 days and nights of sewing non-stop organized by the club Haute Couture that I am in. No distractions except to eat which is all provided. No tv, no computer, nada. Well, there are interesting other ladies all passionate about sewing so there are conversations. Last year Barbara and I took our hiking shoes but never left the rooms even though Lake Tahoe was right outside our window. We were obsessed. I'm sure it will be the same this time.

So the problem..... I found that it was best last year if I had my fabric and patterns cut out ahead of time. The cutting situation there wasn't the best and when I did have to cut out it was hard to keep focused. It took me much longer to cut out a project than it would at home. 

I took about 20 projects and 7 or 8 were cut out ahead of time. I sewed 10 in the 5 days. I hope to do the same this year. I'm going crazy with trying to decide which patterns and fabric to start cutting. I have pulled out dozens of each to contemplate. But each time I pull something out it reminds me of another fabric I'm dying to get to. How shall I focus???? I thought about doing a coordinated wardrobe but that seems too hard to pull together right now. 

Sewing Workshop Valencia Jacket

This is the first garment I have sewn from my Portland spree. I wasn't sure what I would do with this linen eyelet when I found it but loved the color and figured something would work out. I knew I wanted a loose over garment so I wouldn't have to line the eyelet. This was my most recent Sewing Workshop pattern purchase so it was eager to be sewn up. Sewing Workshop describes this as a "loose fitting jacket with soft fold-back lapels, long sleeves with faced cuffs and angled narrow hems. Under sleeves end in "V" at waistline side seams. Wrong side of fabric shows on lapels." There are also straight leg, one seam pants included in the pattern. I just sewed the jacket.

Although my measurements are well into the Medium size, I cut the Small and am happy I did. I could have even gone down to the XS I think. The front is very loose as you can see. The back fits more closely so you need to watch out there if you go down in size.

This pattern has the usual excellent SW instructions. I think, with the good instructions, this could be an easy garment for a novice to sew except for the underarm "V". It is actually a half gusset that is part of the under sleeve piece. That one detail might throw the beginner off although it is not difficult. It just requires precision.

I like a soft jacket. I've made some very similar to this before like Vogue 7640, now OOP, and enjoyed wearing the style. This SW is almost the same except for the 2 piece sleeve with underarm gusset.

On the Portland trip I also bought another 30 or so yards of fabric. Egads! What was I thinking??? Well, at least I got one piece done.

Pattern Review Weekend

I had such a fantastic time at the PR weekend in Portland, rooming with Annika, meeting everyone, learning from Pati Palmer, and fabric shopping. I had planned to just look and not buy. After all I already have more fabric than I can use in two or three lifetimes. But how can you spend all day in fabulous fabric stores without succumbing. I mean really, wool jersey is so hard to find, 50% on beautiful silks, great jersey prints.... what could I do? It took me all week just to enter everything in my database and find places to put it away. Oh no, I didn't find places to put everything away. I'll just have to sew it up right away. Here are a few photos. See more at the link at Pattern Review http://www.flickr.com/groups/1115798@N21/

McCall's 5752 The Perfect Knit Dress

This very popular pattern deserves its reputation and title as "The Perfect Knit Dress", so dubbed by Pati Palmer. It lives up to the suggestion that it is flattering to everyone and easy to sew. I had hoped to finish this before attending the PR weekend so I could wear it on the Pati Palmer day. I didn't quite get it done in the hectic weeks before the event but here it is now.

My pattern was size BB which is 8 - 14. It is also available in size FF, 16- 22. I made 10 in the shoulders and neck, and 14 at the sides. This is my usual combo. I found this fit better than most without additional tweaking or FBA. I lengthened the skirt 2 inches. In the photo I have knotted the front drape but it is constructed just as the pattern shows.

There are extensive instructions on how to alter. I did change the order of construction as suggested by Barbara V in her review on Pattern Review. I see that others have done this also.

I love the ruched waist that hides body issues, especially in the back. I love the cross over that doesn't gap or reveal. I love the soft drape in the front which also helps hide body issues. Maybe I'm dillusional but it does seem to flatter. I think this is a rayon knit, perhaps blended with cotton as it is very soft and cotton-ey feeling. I purchased this 6 years ago from Fabric.com for less than $10. From that I have made this dress plus a maternity top last year for my DIL. What a bargain! I would love to have more of this type fabric.

I really like this dress. It is so comfortable to wear and goes together easily. No wonder many have already made this dress and reviewed it favorably.

Sewing Workshop Ikina Jacket

I forgot to blog about my Ikina Jacket. I love Asian styling, especially enduring styles like the kimono to make garments I can wear for years. Pattern Description: The Ikina Jacket is a below waist jacket with open sides finished with kimono-like facings, bias-cut, one-piece collar/band, three-quarter length sleeves and deep hems. The pattern also includes above ankle, pull on pants with elastic waist. I just made the jacket. I used Sewing Workshop Plaza Pants pattern for the pants I'm wearing here. The top is an older Burda pattern, 8987, that I have used before for a simple, bias tank. I lowered the vee this time and eliminated the back slit opening as it wasn't necessary for getting into the top. I find those slits on bias often poke out at the back so I try to avoid them. I used size small although my measurements call for medium. This works best for me with a loose fitting garment as my shoulders are small and there is plenty of ease for the problem bust area. As always Sewing Workshop has excellent instructions that result in a beautiful finished product inside and out. I'm calling this silk organza because I don't know better. It is similar in crispness to organza but has this beautiful woven in pattern and texture and is a different color on the back side. Does someone know what it is? I purchased it at StoneMountain & Daughter in Berkeley. I used the back side of the fabric for the neckband and facing. I also flipped the hem of the sleeve to the outside to show the back side of the fabric there. I know some sewers have left off the side facings and sewn the seam traditionally thinking it would make them look wider. I considered doing this because I certainly don't want to look wider! But I basted the facing on and loved it. I certainly feel it makes the style special. Without it is okay but not extraordinary.

Quilt for the boys

Here I am quilting again. This is the third one this year and I never quilt! I guess that's what happens when you become a grandmother. We're leaving early tomorrow for Jackson Hole so instead of packing I'm finishing up the quilt which will be a wall hanging in the boys room. I still need to do the binding and trim all the threads but I can do that when I get there. Overall I'm very pleased with it. If you look closely you can tell I'm not a polished quilter and little things are not quite right. I won't be entering it in any shows that's for sure. The close up shows the stippling that I did all over. That sure uses a lot of thread.

The animals are cut from a fabric panel showing the illustrations from "Brown Bear, Brown Bear What Do You See?". Owen, at 2 years old, has this book memorized. I think he will enjoy seeing the familiar animals.

Haute Couture Fashion Show

Today I participated in a fund raiser fashion show for a club I am in called Haute Couture. We have monthly meetings with speakers on a wide range of topics of interest to fashion sewers. We also have workshops to learn new techniques and field trips to places of interest to the group (recently the Yves St. Laurent show in San Francisco). Today was the fashion show. Members model garments they have made for themselves or if made for someone else, that person may model it. This includes grandchildren or daughters. One of our members is a male costumer who outfitted several members with costumes and modeled a bunny costume himself.

I modeled 4 outfits. Here are a few shots. I didn't get all the images I wanted as I had handed my camera to someone unfamiliar with it and she had some trouble. But I'm happy to get some that represent the scene. The shot with me in a black top at the front of a group shows six of us modeling our "Instant Gratification" top that so many ladies got excited about at our sewing retreat last June. By chance I had worn my original orange top on the first day of the week retreat and by the last day 18 or 20 had been sewn, all by tracing around my original garment.

Hot Patterns Riviera Tee Shirt

I made two views from this pattern and like them both very much. The bright green was to be a test for fit because I thought the fabric too bright for me. However it grew on me so I finished the sleeves which really add appeal to the top. I want to make this one again. Here's the review: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=38228. The second top was the one I really wanted to make but because of all the pieces it was hard to tell how it would fit, thus the trial bright green one. This one takes quite a bit of time to construct because each seam is sewn three times.... wrong sides together, overlocked, and finally stitch down flat. I didn't think I liked boat necks on me before this but my thinking is changing on that. Here's the review for the second top: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=38230

What's up with me?

It seems I have been forgetting about my blog. It isn't that I haven't been sewing. 3 tops and a skirt have been reviewed since I last wrote here. Don't know what's up with me. Do I not want to write, communicate, or who knows what? I certainly spend time here at the computer reading other peoples blogs. Maybe that is more fun than writing for me. I will try to do better. 

Sewing Workshop Liberty Shirt

The Liberty Shirt from Sewing Workshop is described on the pattern envelope as a "shirt or jacket with diagonal side seams angled to the front, soft stand-up collar, and set-in sleeves with vent openings. Asymmetric front and back deep hems with mitered corners. Front topstitching detail and five-button closure." It is exactly as described. Sewing Workshop does a terrific job on the instructions. They make everything clear with good illustrations and extra details that lead to a nicely finished garment. I always fall for something a little different and asymmetry especially attracts me. The side seams and unusual collar caught my eye.

The sizes run from XS to XXL. I made the small although my measurements indicate the larger end of the medium. I did add an inch at the bust but took in the shoulders 1/4 inch to be even smaller than the small. I didn't shorten the length which would probably have been a good idea for my short height. However, though I usually shorten sleeves 2 inches on most patterns, I didn't do that here and they are the right length. So if you have normal or long arms be sure to check the sleeve length before you cut.

My friend Dorothy made this in silk noil and I got to try it on. That is how I knew I should make a small with the FBA. However, hers was more flattering on me I think because of the drapier fabric she used. I like mine but I may make another for that other look. I definitely recommend this. The fabric you use makes such a difference in a garment. My linen stands away from the body more than the silk noil but it may soften with time. It also is a dressier look. I do like my shirt and love the color.

Sewing Workshop Trio Top

Sewing Workshop's new pattern includes a lot with a top, a t-shirt, and pants. I've just made the top out of a well aged stash fabric from Hong Kong. I thought it would be fun to use a stripe to highlight the back panel by turning it cross grain so I searched my stash and found this one purchased 15 years ago. It is a lovely raw silk with an annoying property of horrible smell when ironed. Hopefully I won't ever get too hot while wearing it.

Here's the envelope description: T-Shirt: Shaped t-shirt has three-quarter length raglan sleeves, narrow neck binding and double stitched hems. Top: Easy fit, sleeveless short top or jacket has inset back yoke with eased seam, small tailored collar and neck band, and eight-button front closure. Pants: Ankle length pants have long cargo pockets with top button or optional zipper closure sewn into side panel seams. Elastic waistband with flat front. I made the just the top so far.


This pattern has the usual excellent Sewing Workshop instructions. I stupidly sewed the collar stand on upside down and had to improvise the finishing as I had already trimmed it when I realized my mistake. But this was my mistake due to inattentiveness and no fault of the pattern itself. I like the stand up collar, the unusual inset in the back. One minor dislike: the bias binding on the armholes tend to flare up. This often occurs on this type of sleeve. I think if you pull on the bias slightly as you are sewing it this can minimize this. I forgot to do this.

There is plenty of ease through the bust so no need for the usual FBA. After finishing the armholes with the bias binding I decided they needed to be shorter. I turned them under and topstitched. If I were doing it again I might turn them under another half inch. I also sewed the side seam up another inch higher so I can wear this without another top underneath (when I add the buttons, that is). Without that extra inch the armhole is very open. And I changed the cutting direction on the back panel to have the stripes run vertically.

I wore this to a meeting tonight and got lots of compliments. I haven't put the buttons and buttonholes on yet as I hadn't decided just what to use there. I want to wear it with the necklace and don't want the buttons to conflict. The stripes will match up when I do the buttons.
The pants and t-shirt are not the Trio pattern. Marcy Tilton pants Vogue 8397, purchased top.

Catching up

What with trips to Jackson Hole to play with my grandsons and now spring weather at home (the garden calls), I'm having a hard time getting to my 1001 sewing projects. And keeping my blog and pattern reviews up to date! I have several projects finished (ugly coat, silk that smells SW Trio jacket), some cut out (SW Liberty shirt, baby quilt) and a pile on my cutting table. We returned Friday from winter in Wyoming to find lovely warm spring weather here and a garden that is out of control. My body aches from weed pulling. Maybe I will sew tomorrow...

Simplicity 4095 mesh top

This must be my most used pattern ever. I have made the skirt 3 times and now the top 3 times. And I rarely use a pattern more than once! This review is for the top and since I did a few things differently I decided to write a new review for Pattern Review. The pattern has a wrap over top with gathered forward shoulders and gathers where the top wraps to the side seam. There is also a 6 panel skirt and elastic waist pants and a second top pattern that does not wrap. That's a lot in one pattern.

I used a mesh which I'm guessing is probably nylon. I decided to copy some RTW mesh tops I've seen which have double layers in the bodice and no hems. Doubling the fabric is very useful with the mesh as it is on the sheer side. It was a little confusing to sew the doubled pieces together as it is very easy to loose track of which is the inside and which is the outside. I changed the order of sewing to make this work. First the neckline gets sewn and turned. So instead of binding the edge and topstitching you just stitch right sides together and turn. I did this with the serger so that I had a very narrow finished seam inside. This is nice with the sheer fabric. I then sewed the shoulders so that all seams would be hidden inside. Sew up the side seams and set in the sleeves. The sleeves are a single layer. And thats all. No hems at the bottom to stretch out.

I got this fabric out of my stash to make an alternative top to wear with the blue cotton knit Sandra Betzina skirt. However once finished I have decided that there is too much going on with the print and the busy skirt plus the color doesn't go quite as well as I originally thought. So I will wear it with jeans.