Sunday, March 18, 2012

Vogue 1618 Issey Miyake

I finally made this Issey Miyake pattern from 1985. Sometimes it takes me a while to get around to a project! I've been thinking about this one lately because it seems to be on trend now. Miyake designs were never about trends but classic in their on unique way. Even so, for some years this style seemed too loose and too drapey. Now I feel comfortable with that silhouette once again so I brought out the pattern, found fabric in my stash and plunged in. As often the case, it was hard to find a second fabric to work with the first. Once I settled on black it wasn't hard to find that in my stash too.

Here's the envelope description: "Very loose fitting, pullover top with right front drape extending to side with strap, back diagonal seams, concealed cap sleeve on the right side, and wrist length sleeves. View A has a slouchy collar. Straight skirt above ankle, or straight legged pants with elastic waist and mock hem bands. The skirt has a shaped hemline and the wrong side shows". Although it is described as ankle length, you can see that the short side is knee length. The skirt is one piece wrapped around at an angle.

As this is an older pattern, there is only one size per envelope. My pattern is size 14. I folded out 2 inches of width on the top as I usually cut a 10 at the shoulders. It is still very over-sized. The skirt fit as a normal size 14 would.

Miyake is so original, there are usually spots that are counterintuitive and instructions are tricky. Fortunately the only spot that was like this on this design had a very good sketch. Sometimes words are not sufficient.

I love the draped front and odd strap across. Maybe I would have liked to make the top a wee bit narrower. Love the angled skirt. There is no way to make the short part of the skirt longer without the long part also being longer. I shortened the skirt so it wouldn't hit the floor but that brought up the short part to above the knee.

I used a wool gauze stripe and black ribbed cotton knit. On the top the gauze is attached to the black knit although it looks to be a separate draped garment. This is definitely a fun and funky Miyake ensemble that I will enjoy wearing.


Jilly Be said...

No one makes outrageously unique & funky look elegant & classy quite look you do - you've done it again! So gorgeous on you!

(p.s. - my last post describes how to get rid of those hard-to-decipher word verifications, if you choose to do so........)

shams said...

Love it, Ann! I don't think I've ever seen this pattern made up. How interesting!

velosewer said...

You've done a lovely job of this with your fabrics and the pattern lines matching.

moushka26 said...

I'm wildly late with this comment but I was curious as to why you'd disappeared and finally tracked you to your blog! This design is a "true" Miyake, i.e., one designed by the master himself. In 1990, IM starated experimenting with turning his atelier over to his assistant, Naoki Takizowa (sp?), (I think there has been another changeover since) in order to open A-POC, which stands for "a piece of cloth." I happened to be in Paris that summer just as the changeover was first occurring, and visited both stores. (IM is still the creative director of both brands but he has a design team now whereas before the designs were all his.) The original clothing at A-POC was knitted in a double layer with the seams already heat-sealed. The idea was to cut around the seams and, voilĂ ! a two dimensional garment became instantly a three-dimensional dress, top or skirt that one could wear. The first colours were very bright: yellow, electric blue, turquoise, etc., as I remember. The concept was just in its infancy. It has been refined since and it's much more customized now. He has also developed several more lines like Pleats Please, etc.
Anyway, as always, even though you haven't posted recently, it was great to track you down and discover one more of your incredible creations! The views from your new hope are beautiful and inspiring. With four DGK of my own, I can see why posting on PR has fallen by the wayside :-)

Daleen J said...


I would love to make the skirt but can't find my pattern anywhere. Could you possibly post a photo of the pattern insert?