Monday, February 21, 2011

Vogue 1232 Pamella Roland dress

If you are contemplating sewing up this pretty dress let me warn you. It is an epic project. It looks innocent enough in the photo but this dress could be worn into battle it is so thoroughly constructed. I guess if you are going to sell for $2000 or so as the Pamella Roland original did, you need to having something to show for it. Here are some statistics: 24 different pattern pieces to cut from the fashion fabric, 14 pieces to cut from interfacing, 9 pieces of lining. The bottom hem is 10 yards around (yes!! 30 feet around the flounces) and altering for bust, waist, hips involves many pieces including the flounces. It is very complex to alter. The dress is quite weighty what with all that interfacing, lining and 4 yards of 58 wide fabric. I mean, there are only a few little scraps left. Because my fabric wasn't quite the 60 inches wide that is called for, I needed to shorten the 3 flounce pieces an inch. I would have done that any way for my height.


That said it is a very nicely drafted pattern with good instructions for the most part. Some parts of the lining construction are pretty confusing but clear enough if you ponder the drawings long enough. Mostly it is just very time consuming. Lots of stay stitching and easing curved seams.


It looks like a wrap dress but really it is sewn shut at the front and access is through a side zipper. I'm pleased that the front stays closed even though it is only sewn together at the waist.


The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly lining.


One thing I did that helped me a lot was to label every piece with a bit of blue painter's tape stuck to the right side with the pattern number and name (RF, lower RF, etc.). With so many pieces and the right and wrong side exactly the same it would be super easy to get a piece in the wrong place.


The fabric is a linen/rayon blend that has sat in my stash for years. I did have to get to Joann's to buy some barely acceptable poly liningI plan to make the matching covered belt but I'm waiting on a vintage belt kit. Might as well go for the whole deal.


I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.










Envelope description: Close fitting, lower calf at center back length, lined dress has front darts, front and back princess seams, lapped fronts, shaped lower edge, gathered flounce, armhole overlay, collar with collar band, left side invisible zipper, self-fabric flower with large and small petals and pin back, self-fabric belt and thread belt carriers. 
I would say this is indeed an advanced pattern due to the number of pieces, the trickiness of altering, and time needed to construct. However there really aren't any difficult sewing processes to encounter so if you are interested in a couture constructed dress here it is.

10 comments:

Maricou said...

This dress is absolutely admirable and you did such a great amount of work on it.
The fit is great. I like challenging projects but I am not ready for this one though I would love to wear the dress

velosewer said...

This is such a great dress on you. It's so well made and the detailing is worth the $2000 that your dress is now worth. I love it.

Gail said...

It makes quite a statement. Looks great and was certainly worth the effort.

SeattleQigong said...

Thank you for this post. You did an amazing job! I was wondering how much work this dress would be. You answered my question: more work than I had in mind. And it looks great on you. Probably not so good on my less curvy figure.

Karin said...

Wow! You did a great job and it looks fantastic on you. This is the first time I have seen this dress made up. It does sound like a lot of work. I know a lot of people have their eye on the pattern.

gwensews said...

Somehow, I've missed several of your posts, recently. Your dress is just beautiful, and the work paid off. It's a Cinderella dress! Love the pants in your prevous post, and the coat before it. Those French patterns are becomming popular, and I can see why. Great job!

Little Hunting Creek said...

What a beautiful dress! It looks great on you - I love the flounce

Pascale said...

Unbelievably gorgeous, you look terrific and how cool to know that it made by you!

Thank you so much for sharing your work.

lauren said...

i have coveted this dress since i first saw it on the runway a few years back. I was just about to buy the pattern when i saw your review. a total of 47 pieces ... omg. as lovely as your dress turned out, i don think i have the courage to embark on such an enormous project. thanks for the warning, and your dress looks great :)

Anonymous said...

I love this on you!!! how tall are you? wondering about the flounce ?
I am planning on making this into a coat out of a patterned light to medium wool. adding sleeves & possibly a small flounce around the collar instead of a lapel.
My friend just came from France where she had such a coat.I will definatly do a mock up !