Saturday, February 6, 2010
Burda Magazine 9/2009 #115
Here's Burda's flowery description: "You don't have to rob a bank to afford this suave knee-length coat in posh wool fleece coating. You sew it yourself which is actually quite easy as the coat is unlined, has kimono sleeves and a scarf collar." Interesting that they describe it as quite easy but give in 3 1/2 stars on their difficulty rating. I picked this pattern for the interesting seam lines and unique scarf/collar.
This is drafted in sizes 72 through 88 which are the tall size range. I am not tall so I scaled it down as necessary.
I need instructions primarily for order of construction. I have a hard time remembering that and don't want to think too hard about it so I find Burda's instuctions okay. The important steps are there. They do leave off things that I should be able to remember but the senior brain blanks out.... for instance there is no mention of stay stitching at the corners nor slashing them. How many 100s of times have I done this when told to by Vogue, et.al. But since it wasn't mentioned here I didn't think of it until I found myself struggling with those pointed intersections.
I used a wool melton double cloth from Fabric.com at an amazing low price. The pattern calls for coat fabrics with a soft surface and only fabrics that do not fray. Mine has the soft surface but does fray. I don't see any reason to use only fabrics that don't fray. I guess they suggest that because it is not lined but all you need to do is finish the seam edges inside. All exterior edges are faced or hemmed. I decided to line mine to make it more comfortable. I used a silk charmeuse from my stash.
Originally I cut the coat to be longer as in design 114 in the magazine. When it was together enough to try on I showed my DH who thought it was a bathrobe. That, plus the alarming green color, made me annoyed with the project and almost threw it out. My friend Barbara encouraged me to continue so I cut off the extra length, added the lining and pressed the edges vigorously. Much better. I used a large snap at the neck to close. The design calls for 5 snaps but I didn't think that was necessary. I think I may add one more just below the seam across the front. Both snaps will be hidden by the scarf when worn. Oh yes, I also reduced the width of the collar by 1 1/4". You need to be that tall person the pattern is sized for to wear that tall collar.
I might make it again if I found the appropriate boiled wool. In that case I would not face all the edges or make the scarf doubled to keep it lean and mean.
The color is much more intense than the color looked to be when I ordered it. Maybe I'm just sick of looking at it and once it hides in my closet for a while my eyes will have recovered.
I have recovered: I wore the coat last night to a concert and it felt good. Someone even complimented me on how good I look in green. So it will be worn and loved.