Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Vogue Issey Miyake 1052
This is Vogue's latest Issey Miyake pattern. I have loved Miyakes from the beginning. The last few years they have not been designed my Miyake himself as he has retired. These more recent designs tend to be less innovative and more conservative. They are also scaled closer to the body which probably reflects current styles more than the change of designers. This pattern reflects this aesthetic and follows more normal construction techniques. However the collar lifts the design into the unusual that we love from the Miyake company.
Pattern Description: Here is Vogue's description: Loose-fitting, lined, above hipline jacket with double draped collar, welt pockets, princess seams and back ties. Topstitch trim and stitched hems. The pattern also includes very loose-fitting, below waistline pants, with front casings, fly button closing, back waistband, tie ends and carriers. Slightly flared above ankle length. I just made the jacket.
Pattern Sizing: 2 combinations: AA (6-8-10-12) and E5 (14-16-18-20)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much except I changed some of the button and buttonhole positions to suit myself. The highest buttonholes would show one the collar all the time as I don't plan to button up around the neck.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Although this is listed as advanced I think that it is not that tough and the instructions are clear. If you eliminate the welt pockets and keep an open mind about how to button this it should be doable by an intermediate sewer.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the collar. The design has two layers of collar that are open at the outer edge. The suggested finish for this outer layer is to turn under, zigzag the edge, and then trim the seam allowance close to the zigzag stitch. This is time consuming and nerve-wracking as one has to worry the entire time you are trimming the 200 inches of collar edge. I was terrified I would cut a slash in the fabric. An easier, faster, and perhaps better looking edge would be to do an overlock or rolled edge. I tested these and decided I liked the zigzag with my fabric and felt it suited the look. Another thing to take note of is that the underside of the fabric will show as the two collar pieces are stitched wrong sides together. Thus the lower collar is wrong side up. As the collar falls into folds both sides show. Usually Vogue mentions that the wrong side of the fabric will show in the fabric selection area on the pattern. They neglected to do that this time.
Also I quite like the unusual sleeve. The undersleeve becomes the jacket side. Very cool. Although there are princess seams they are not very shaped so the silhouette is somewhat boxy. Be prepared for lots of top-stitching with a large size spool of thread. I had to run out and buy another one mid-stream.
Fabric Used: Silk/linen blend in dark brown. This style needs a fabric with body that also drapes well.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a few changes. The main thing was to eliminate the lining and welt pockets to make it lighter weight and more blouse like. This necessitated drafting a back neck facing. It also called for interfacing the entire front which I skipped on. I made my usual FBA. The other change was to eliminate some of the buttonholes because I decided I would never button it up high.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think it is a great jacket/blouse. I probably won't sew it again as I rarely do that but I definitely recommend it.
Conclusion: I like it. This is how it looks open. And this is buttoned as high as I plan to wear it. This shows partial buttoning.