|Reviewed by:||Ann Smith|
|Posted on:||12/10/03 2:02 AM|
|Last Updated:||12/10/03 2:10 AM|
|Pattern Rating:||I Highly recommend this pattern|
|I think this is a real "sleeper" pattern. I'm very excited about how it turned out. It is a self lined, loose fitting jacket with drop shoulders and slits on the sleeves. The pattern includes extensive directions on quilting and beading as shown on the cover photos. Marcy Tilton describes her design as a Japanese influenced jacket (or vest) derived from a photo detail of a 1937 Lanvin quilted/padded silk evening jacket in the costume collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.|
I did not use any of Marcy's detailed instructions for quilting or beading but just used the pattern for the wonderful shaping. My silk had the effect of quilting built in. I didn't add any to the texture it came with. Although the jacket is described as loose fitting it tapers in to fit fairly closely at the hips. I didn't do my usual full bust alteration because there is plenty of room there but I just barely made it at the hips. I tapered the seam out to 1/4 inch at the hips which gave me a needed inch. You wouldn't want to fiddle with the fit too much (by adding a lot at the hips or reducing the shoulder width) because that would destroy the line that angles in from shoulders to hem. It is a very flattering line.
There are wonderful instructions included for the bound buttonholes. Mine came out great. I was delighted to find in my button collection just the right unmatched pair of antique metal buttons.
The jacket has a very interesting sleeve. It is one piece but the seam is at the back of the arm. This creates a bias edge for the lower part of the seam. At first I thought I had cut it out wrong because that edge was several inches longer than the top edge. But it had just stretched, as bias does, just from lifting it off the cutting table. By sewing it with the bias edge down, next to the feed dogs, the extra length eased in perfectly.
Except for the bound buttonholes which take a little practice, this is an easy pattern. It takes a bit of time because there is quite a bit of hand sewing (hem, lining hem, sleeve of lining, finishing buttonholes, securing back neck) but the end result is a couture looking garment.