Monday, April 16, 2007

Vogue 7610 Sandra Betzina jacket

Reviewed by:Ann Smith
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Member since: 8/24/02
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Bio: I love to sew for fashion, especially unusual designs. I own way too many patterns and fabric! I hav...full profile
Posted on:6/26/05 10:46 PM
Pattern Size:Regular
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Information provided by Ann Smith

Pattern Rating:I would definitely sew this pattern again

Pattern Description: This is a typical jeans jacket described by Vogue as loose fitting, unlined, above hip jacket or ankle coat with yokes, collar, extended shoulders, front button/snap closing and long sleeves with cuffs. View A which I made has a hem band. View B is the coat with raised waist, slightly flared, back vent and tie belt.

Pattern Sizing: The sizing is Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina which is designed for mature bodies. The range is from Bust 32 - 36 (size A-B-C) to bust 46 - 55 (size G-H-I-J). I made size B which is closest to my high bust measurement, 4 inches less than my full bust, close to my waist, one inch smaller than my hips. A flat pattern check showed there to be plenty of ease so I didn't do a FBA or add on at the hips which I usually must do. I did shorten the sleeves as usual.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, definitely.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very good and quite thorough except for the setting in the sleeve part. That was very minimal. Too bad because otherwise this could be constructed by a patient beginner. It says to run an easeline around the sleeve cap between notches, with right sides together pin sleeve into armhole matching notches and sleeve into armhole. Basically accurate but I had trouble here as there was quite a bit of easing. Given the extensive instructions everywere else, this seemed like an oversight.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the jeans jacket styling, particularly the v-shaped yoke in the back and the curved flaps on the front pockets. Also I enjoyed sewing something straight from the envelope without the usual alterations.
I disliked the recommendation to use snaps. I thought to myself 13 buttonholes...hmmm, I don't want to do that. I will do the hammer on snaps. Do not do this. This was horrible. At least with the snaps I was able to find it was a nightmare. These were jeans type hammer on snaps. They look good but getting them done was awful. You hammer them on using a hard plastic form to hold the part under the fabric. You have to hammer very hard to get the snap to stay on the denim. After 5 snaps, the hard plastic form shattered. I then bought another kit. That one lasted 2 snaps. Next time I went to the store I bought 3 kits at once just to be sure I didn't have to go back again. The top snap on the jacket front was almost impossible to attach as it has to go through so many layers. It is placed right at the bulk of the seam of the yoke, facing and front. Way too many layers. I got it on eventually but the fabric looks a bit weather beaten from my struggle there. I'm afraid to acually snap these for fear they will pull out.

Fabric Used: A floral cotton/lycra denim twill from EOS. You may have seen this fabric before in a very similar jacket reviewed last spring here at PR. I was so startled to see that review because I had the identical fabric paired with this pattern in my pile. She smartly used buttons.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: As I said, I cut this out without alterations and sewed it up. It looked just like the picture on the envelope. However I didn't like the extended sleeves on me so I took in the shoulder seam 3/8", sleeve and all. I also wanted a more fitted look so I took in the side seams about 3/8" each, or 1 1/2" in all.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This jacket was fun but quite time consuming to make. Lots of details (pockets, tabs, top-stitching) that added up to many hours. Not hard, just takes awhile.

Conclusion I like it.

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